; 

ii 


.If- 


Fourth  Edition 


ELMER  D.  SMITH  &  CO 
ADRIAN,  MICHIGAN 

Price  60  Cents 


Smith's 

Chrysanthemum 
Manual 

FOURTH  EDITION 


Many  of  the  Important  Chapters  Have  Been  Revised  and  Enlarged,  Giving 

More  Complete  Details,   with  Additional   Illustrations.      The 

Work  Is  Practical,  Not  Only  to  Florists,  Who  Have 

Every  Facility,  but  to  the  Amateur. 


FU LL Y    I LLU SEATED 


BY 

ELMER   D.    SMITH 

*  i 

Who  Has  Given  His  Undivided  Attention  for  Twenty-five  Years  to  the 

Improvement  of  the  Chrysanthemum  and  Its  Culture 

in  Detail. 

1919 


A  r- 

A*  „•  _   ' 


"sT/CL.-   IX--3- 
Copyright  1919 

by 

ELMER  D. 


INTRODUCTION 

During  the  past  thirty  years,  I  have  devoted  much  time  and  energy 
to  the  cultivation  and  improvement  of  the  Chrysanthemum  and  have  re- 
ceived many  inquiries  from  those  desirous  of  gaining  knowledge  on  this 
subject.  Confronted  with  these  facts  and  realizing  the  urgent  need  for 
a  complete,  as  Well  as  practical  treatise,  at  a  price  within  the  reach  of 
all,  I  make  this  attempt  in  compliance  with  these  demands. 

It  is  my  desire  to  concisely  set  forth  in  these  pages  all  details  per- 
taining to  Chrysanthemum  culture,  beginning  with  stock  plants,  treating 
the  many  branches,  through  each  stage  of  development,  up  to  and  includ- 
ing the  staging  of  plants  and  cut  blooms. 

Most  of  the  works  upon  this  subject  have  been  confined  to  methods 
practical  only  to  florists,  having  every  facility  necessary  to  successful 
culture. 

The  amateur,  growing  a  few  plants  for  pleasure  and  eager  for  better 
results,  has  been  entirely  overlooked.  It  is  hoped  this  booklet  will  meet 
the  requirements  of  all. 

There  is  no  plant  which  responds  more  freely  to  careful  attention 
than  the  Chrysanthemum.  The  whole  secret  of  success  lies  ih  prompt 
attention  to  details,  and  when  these  are  thoroughly  understood  and  exe- 
cuted, we  may  expect  a  generous  reward. 

The  celerity  with  which  the  first  three  editions  sold  has  prompted  my 
issuing  this  Fourth  Edition.  I  trust  that  my  efforts  will  be  assistance  to 
many. 

ELMER  D.  SMITH, 

Member  of  the  Chrysanthemum  Society  of  America 

The  National  Chrysanthemum  Society  of  England,  and 

Society  Francaise  des  Chrysanthemistes. 


415315 


Smith's  Chrysanthemum 
Manual 


CHAPTER  L 


HISTORY 

The  deriviation  of  the  word  Chrysanthemum  is  from  the  Greek  words 
Chrysos,  gold — and  Aiithemom,  a  flower.  It  is  not  easy  to  say  how  long 
the  Chrysanthemum  has  been  known  to  mankind,  but  undoubtedly  over 
2,000  years  have  elapsed  since  it  was  first  known  in  the  Celestial -Empire. 

In  Japan  its  cultivation  can  be  traced  back  over  700  years.  Breynius, 
in  10)89,  was  the  first  European  to  mention  the  Chrysanthemum  under  the 
name  of  Matricaria  Japonica  Maxima.  M.  Pierre  Louis  Blancard  intro- 
duced the  first  large  flowering  varieties  into  England  in  1789,  and  the 
following  year  they  were  flowered  and  named.  Mr.  John  Sailer  was  one 
of  the  earliest  English  hybridizers,  and  produced  many  wonderful  varieties 
from  1838  to  1848. 

As  near  as  can  be  ascertained,  they  were  introduced  into  America 
about  the  year  1847:  Dr.  H.  P.  Walcott  is  credited  as  being  the  first  per- 
son in  this  country  to  raise  new  varieties  from  seed,  which  he  did  as  early 
as  1879.  The  work  of  hybridization  was  taken  up  by  Win.  K.  Harris  and 
Joiin  Thorpe  early  in  the  SO's. 

Their  efforts  were  crowned  with  great  success,  both  originating  many 
new  and  startling  varieties.  These  results  were  incentive  to  others  until 
the  zenith  was  reached  in  1894,  when  163  new  varieties  were  offered  for 
sale,  many  of  which  were  inferior  to  those  then  in  commerce.  This  condi- 
tion caused  many  to  be  skeptical,  doubting  the  merits  of  the  so-called 
novelties,  until  fully  tested. 

In  the  meantime,  John  Thorpe  had  conceived  the  idea  of  organizing 
a  society  to  protect  the  interests  and  also  promote  the  development  of  this 
flower  which  was  fast  gaining  popularity.  In  1890,  at  Buffalo,  the  organi- 
zation now  known  as  the  Chrysanthemum  Society  of  America  was  es- 
tablished. In  1894  this  Society  appointed  committees  composed  of  ex- 
perts to  meet  during  the  following  season  at  Chicago,  Cincinnati,  Phila- 
delphia, New  York  and  Boston,  to  inspect  seedlings  and  sports.  These 


2  SMITH'S    CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL, 

committees  have  been  continued  from  year  to  year,  awarding  first-class 
certificates  to  the  deserving  ones. 

Such  action  brought  the  varieties  certificated  into  prominence,  and 
those  which  failed  to  meet  their  commendation  were  so  little  sought  after 
as  to  be  unprofitable,  and  many  discontinued  hybridizing. 

The  first  exhibition  given  by  the  C.  S.  A.  was  in  November,  1902, 
under  the  auspices  of  the  Horticultural  Society  of  Chicago.  Since  then 
they  have  been  held  annually  in  the  large  cities  both  East  and  West. 


CHAPTER  IL 

STOCK  PLANTS. 

At  the  close  of  the  flowering  season  the  old  plants  must  be  saved  for 
.-stock,  from  which  to  propagate  young  plants  for  another  year's  use.  Each 
grower  should  decide  how  many  will  be  required  and  provide  the  most 
suitable  situation  for  their  maintenance. 

The  'amateur  will  need  only  two  or  three  of  a  kind,  while  the  com- 
mercial florist  may  need  several  thousand  of  the  most  popular  sorts  to 
meet  his  demand.  Some  varieties  are  more  susceptible  of  being  increased 
than  others,  making  cuttings  abundantly  and  rooting  freely. 

Those  who  propagate  for  their  own  use  only,  should  keep  the  plants 
in  a  low  temperature,  just  above  freezing,  and  even  a  few  degrees  of  frost 
will  not  materially  injure  them.  They  thrive  best  when  kept  on  the  dry 
;side  during  the  dark  days  of  winter,  at  which  time  they  are  rather  In- 
active. The  florist  who  requires  quantities  for  early  distribution  will  be 
obliged  to  give  higher  temperature,  about  50  degrees ;  and  their  needs 
for  water  should  be  carefully  considered,  avoiding,  if  possible,  too  abund- 
ant and  frequent  use,  as  such  a  course  tends  to  weaken  the  plants,  thus 
giving  sickly  cuttings. 

Another  plan  adopted  by  many  private  gardeners  and  those  requiring 
only  a  limited  number  of  plants,  is  to  root  sufficient  cuttings  in  November 
and  dispense  with  the  old  stock  plants. 

Early  Propagation — Stock  plants  for  early  propagation  are  gener- 
ally planted  on  greenhouse  benches,  producing  successive  crops  of  cut- 
tings. With  the  new  and  scarce  sorts  it  is  sometimes  advisable  to  take 
cuttings  even  as  early  as  September  or  October,  and,  as  soon  as  rooted, 
these  are  planted  in  shallow  boxes  or  upon  the  bench.  When  large  enough, 
the  tops  are  taken  off  as  cuttings.  This  induces  the  plants  to  make  new 
breaks,  which  are  used  for  cuttings  when  of  suitable  size. 

Cold  Frames — The  cold  frame  system  is  the  most  practical  for  those 
who  do  not  have  greenhouses,  and  the  wholesale  florist  who  needs  large 
quantities  of  plants  for  June  and  July  delivery  will  find  them  equally 
serviceable. 

In  the  construction  of  cold  frames,  there  is  no  objection  to  excavating 
one  or  two  feet,  provided  ample  drainage  can  be  secured;  otherwise  it  is 
best  to  make  board  frames  and  plant  stock  on  the  level  or  slightly  ele- 
vated so  that  no  surplus  moisture  will  remain  about  the  roots.  Stock  thus 
stored  should  be  protected  by  covering  the  frames  with  boards.  To  pre- 
vent continual  freezing  and  thawing,  these  frames  must  be  covered  with 
coarse  manure  or  litter.  Most  varieties  are  not  injured  by  freezing,  pro- 
vided they  are  kept  in  this  condition  until  spring. 

Field  Groivn — Field  grown  stock  is  in  every  way  more  satisfactory 


4  SMITH'S   CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL 

than  that  which  has  produced  blooms  under  glass.  They  appear  to  pos- 
sess more  vigor  and  give  successive  crops  with  greater  rapidity.  These 
may  be  handled  in  cold  frames,  as  previously  mentioned,  or  removed  to 
greenhouse  when  early  propagation  is  necessary. 

Imported  Stock — Those  importing  foreign  varieties  often  find  them 
in  very  poor  condition  when  unpacked.  This  is  not  to  be  wondered  at 
when  we  consider  they  are  from  two  to  six  weeks  in  transit.  They  are- 
genera  lly  packed  in  dry  cocanut  fiber,  and  when  taken  from  the  box  look 
like  dry  sticks.  It  is  only  by  the  utmost  vigilance  and  care  that  such 
plants  are  nursed  into  activity.  Immerse  them  into  tepid  water  for  a  few 
hours  to  plump  the  wood  and  roots. 

After  removing  all  lifeless  growth,  pot  them  in  light  soil,  using  a» 
small  a  pot  as  will  accommodate  the  roots.  It  should  be  the  aim  to  induce 
root  growth  as  soon  as  possible  and,  to  do  this,  plunge  them  into  a  close 
case  which  is  provided  with  gentle  bottom  heat — about  70  degrees  will 
suffice.  See  that  the  material  in  which  they  are  plunged  is  kept  on  the 
dry  side,  and  use  water  rather  sparingly  until  they  begin  to  grow  freely. 
They  should  be  looked  to  several  times  each  day,  and  if  the  plants  or  soil 
shows  signs  of  fungus,  ventilation  must  be  given  for  such  conditions,  if 
not  promptly  checked,  are  fatal.  It  is  often  wise  to  remove  the  cuttings 
v,  hen  quite  small  and  root  them,  especially  if  the  old  plants  are  weak  or 
show  signs  of  decay. 

By  taking  this  course  it  is  possible  to  establish  a  small  plant  upon  its 
own  root,  which  would  otherwise  be  lost  if  allowed  to  remain  until  the  old 
plant  had  gained  vigor. 

Novelties  and  Scarce  Sorts — Novelties  and  scarce  sorts  are  often 
bought  in  limited  quantity  to  propagate  from.  The  best  results  are  obtain- 
ed by  planting  these  young  plants  into  flats  (shallow  boxes),  or  upon  the 
bench  in  shallow  soil.  As  soon  as  they  show  signs  of  growth,  the  tops  are 
taken  as  cuttings  and  the  plants  are  treated  thereafter  same  as  stock 
plants. 

It  is  imprudent  to  over-propagate,  by  taking  every  cutting  as  soon 
as  large  enough  to  root :  better  let  the  cutting  get  strong,  so  that  a  few 
leaves  are  left  on  the  plants.  This  will  greatly  assist  in  maintaining 
strong,  healthy  stock  plants. 


CHAPTER  111. 

PROPAGATION 

Assuming  the  old  plants  (stock  plants)  have  been  cared  for  and  are 
in  proper  condition,  the  next  step  is  the  propagation  of  young  plants.  Tlila 
is  best  done  with  soft  wood  cuttings  or  divisions;  the  former,  however, 
are  generally  used. 

Cutting  Bench — The  cutting  bench  is  simply  a  table  or  bench  con- 
structed to  hold  three  or  four  inches  of  material  into  which  the  cuttings 
may  be  inserted.  Clean  washed  sand  is  considered  the  best  material,  but 
when  unavailable,  coke,  brick  or  stone,  finely  crushed  and  screened,  will 
give  very  satisfactory  results.  After  the  bench  is  filled  with  sand,  it 
should  be  pounded  as  firm  as  possible  and  given  a  thorough  watering 
when  it  is  ready  for  use.  In  preparing  these  benches,  see  that  all  material 
is  clean  and  free  from  decaying  matter,  and  to  this  end  a  coat  of  white- 
wash will  be  beneficial. 


FIG.    1.      CUTTING   BENCH    TAMP. 

Selection  of  Cuttings  —  In  the  selection  of  cuttings,  it  is  generally 
conceded  the  strong  and  vigorous  are  the  best.  Stock  properly  handled 
will  give  good  cuttings,  and  we  would  rake  weak  ones  only  when  absolutely 
necessary. 

Makitiff  Cuttings — These  are  cut  from  an  inch  to  three-  inches  long, 
removing  the  lower  and  shortening  the  tips  of  the  larger  leaves.  See  Fig.  2. 

With  a  knife  make  a  cut  in  the  sand  %  in.  dee]),  or  more,  according 
to  length  of  cuttings,  inserting  close  together  and  firm  the  sand  well  about 
them.  Give  the  whole  a  liberal  watering  and  keep  constantly  wet  until 
rooted,  which  will  require  six  to  twenty  days. 

To  insure  the  largest  percentage,  the  cuttings  should  be  moderately 
soft  at  the  time  they  are  removed  from  the  plant.  Single  eye  cuttings  of 
new  and  scarce  sorts  may  be  used  when  necessary.  These  are  fastened 
to  toothpicks  with  fine  stemming  wire,  allowing  half  of  the  toothpick  to 


6  SMITH'S   CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL, 

•extend  below  the  end  of  the  cutting,  which  should  firmly  rest  on  the  sand 
when  inserted  in  the  bed.   See  C,  Fig.  2.    It  requires  more  time  to  produce 


•FIG.  2.      CUTTINGS — A,  LONG  :  B,  SHORT  ;  C,  SINGLE  EYE. 

good  plants  by  this  system  then  where  fair-sized  cuttings  are  taken,  but 
is  often  of  service  when  stock  is  limited. 

Air  and  Temperati^re — The  propagating  house  should  be  well  aired, 
and  as  far  as  possible  the  atmospheric  temperature  should  not  exceed  55 
degrees,  with  a  bottom  heat  of  10  degrees  higher. 

The  Chrysanthemum  is  so  susceptible  of  being  rooted  that  no  fast  rule 
can  be  given.  They  may  be  struck  in  a  temperature  as  low  as  40  and  as 
high  as  80  degrees,  but  if  the  former  is  adopted  they  root  very  slowly, 
many  varieties  become  hardened  and  thus  the  object  is  defeated.  On  the 
ether  hand,  if  too  high  temperature  is  used,  cutting  bench  fungus  is  liable 
to  set  in  and  ruin  the  crop. 

Shading — As  the  season  advances  and  the  outdoor  temperature  rises, 
it  is  impossible  to  maintain  55  degrees,  and  the  soft  cuttings  are  very 
much  inclined  to  flag  or  wilt.  For  this  purpose  we  use  a  light  wrapping 
paper,  in  rolls  30  inches  wide,  which  is  given  a  coat  of  linseed  oil  and 
then  tacked  to  the  sash  bars  of  the  house.  This  shading  being  semi-trans- 
parent, gives  satisfactory  results  throughout  the  propagating  season. 

In  case  of  an  excessive  bright  and  hot  spell,  whitewash  or  any  other 
good  shading  material  should  be  applied  to  the  outside  of  the  glass.  Let 
the  condition  of  cuttings  be  index  for  shading,  but  use  every  precaution 
necessary  to  prevent  wilting,  exclude  light  by  covering  and  dampen  the 
walks  to  lower  the  temperature. 

Watering — It  is  very  important  that  cuttings  should  never  get  dry, 
tor  under  such  conditions  the  end  inserted  in  the  sand  becomes  brown  and 
hardened  and  will  not  take  up  water  in  sufficient  quantity  to  revive  the 
'foliage,  and  thus  becomes  worthless.  Many  of  the  wholesale  florists  pro- 
pagate Chrysanthemums  the  year  round,  although  the  bulk  are  struck  from 
March  to  July. 


PROPAGATION  7 

Another  method  largely  employed  in  California  and  other  sub-tropi- 
cal states,  is  to  use  cotton  cloth  as  a  covering  for  the  propagating  house 
or  frame.  This  excludes  part  of  the  light  and  prevents  the  wind  from 
drying  them  out.  The  cutting  beds  are  usually  made  upon  the  ground,, 
using  sand  as  a  material  to  hold  moisture  and  sustain  them  until  they 
make  roots.  Large  quantities  of  cuttings  are  successfully  handled  in  this 
'way  along  the  Pacific  Coast. 

Saucer  System — Those  who  wish  to  propagate  a  few  plants  and  are 
not  favored  with  the  facilities  of  the  greenhouse,  may  use  shallow  boxes 
or  any  dish  that  will  hold  a  few  inches  of  sand.  A  dozen  or  more  cutting* 
may  be  inserted  at  a  time  by  adopting  the  "Saucer  System"  given  by 
Peter  Henderson  in  his  work,  "Practical  Floral  Culture,"  which  is  as  fol- 
lows :  "It  is  called  the  Saucer  System  because  saucers  or  plates  are  used 
to  hold  the  sand  in  which  the  cuttings  are  placed.  The  sand  is  put  in  to 
a  depth  of  an  inch  or  so  and  the  cuttings  are  inserted  in  it  close  enough 
to  touch  each  other.  The  sand  is  then  watered  until  it  becomes  the  condi- 
tion of  mud,  and  placed  on  the  windodw-  sill  fully  exposed  to  the  sun.  But 
one  condition  is  essential  to  success,  until  the  cuttings  become  rooted  the 
Scfind  must  be  continually  saturated  and  kept  in  the  condition  of  mud ;  if 
once  allowed  to  dry  up  the  whole  operation  will  be  defeated.'' 

English  Method — The  English  method  may  also  be  of  service  to  the 
amateur  and  is  as  follows:  Insert  three  or  four  cuttings  around  the 
edge  of  a  four-inch  pot  that  has  been  previously  filled  with  light  soil,  con- 
sisting of  loam,  sand  and  leaf  mould,  equal  parts.  These  are  placed  into 
a  close  frame  and  given  same  attention  as  suggested  for  Imported  Stock, 
pg.  4. 

Divisions — In  localities  where  the  plants  remain  out-of-doors  over 
winter  without  injury,  they  can  be  increased  by  removing  the  sprouts  or 
stools  that  have  sprung  up  from  the  base  of  the  old  plant.  As  these  stools 
come  into  active  growth,  roots  are  formed  near  the  surface  of  the  soil, 
mid  may  then  be  removed  and  replanted  or  potted  as  desired.  Often  such 
pieces  are  difficult  to  pot  owing  to  the  long,  crooked  stems.  These  are 
removed,  leaving  a  few  roots  to  establish  the  young  plant.  New  varieties 
are  generally  produced  by  seeds,  which  are  fully  treated  in  Chapter  XII. 

Potting — Cuttings  should  not  remain  in  the  bench  after  the  roots  are 
half  an  inch  long,  as  they  are  potted  easier,  making  better  plants  in  every 
way  than  when  allowed  to  remain  until  the  roots  are  further  developed. 

The  soil  should  not  be  dry,  but  moist  enough  to  remain  intact  when 
squeezed  in  the  hand,  and,  on  the  other  hand,  not  be  muddy.  Cuttings 
are  usually  potted  in  small  pots,  the  two-inch  size  being  ample.  Put  suf- 
ficient soil  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot  so  that  the  base  of  the  cutting  will  be 
about  %  of  an  inch  below  the  surface,  hold  cutting  in  center  of  pot  with 
one  hand  and  fill  in  with  the  other.  Firm  the  soil,  with  thumb  or  fingers, 
enough  to  keep  the  cutting  upright,  and  be  sure  to  leave  sufficient  space  for 
water,  which  should  be  applied  liberally  without  delay. 

Putting  the  cuttings  in  flats  (shallow  boxes),  instead  of  potting,  has 
long  been  in  vogue,  and  is  a  good  course  to  pursue,  insuring  good  stock 
at  planting  time  with  less  labor  involved.  See  Fig.  3. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


SPECIMEN   PLANTS' 


Cuttings  may  be  taken  any  time  from  January  15th  to  March  15th,  t 
those  struck  in  February  give  best  results.  As  soon  as  rooted  they  a 
potted  In  2-in.  pots,  using  light  soil,  and  placed  in  a  cool,  airy  house  a 
as  near  the  glass  as  possible.  If  given  proper  attention,  such  plants  w 


FIG.     3.       STOCK     GROWN     BY     FLAT      SYSTEM. 

make  large  specimens  from  three  to  six  feet  high,  and  nearly  as  wic 
by  flowering  time.  In  the  course  of  a  week  or  ten  days  the  roots  w 
push  to  the  side  of  the  pot  and  will  need  shifting  into  the  next  larg 
size. 

Soil — There  are  many  ideas  as  to  what  soil  is  best  suited  for  Chrj 
trnMiemums.  Each  expert  has  a  way  of  his  own  in  preparing  the  so 
but  as  equally  good  results  have  been  obtained  under  varied  conditioi 
it  is  safe  to  conclude  that  the  compost  employed  has  little  to  do  with  i 
suits,  provided  it  contains  sufficient  food  to  nourish  the  plant  and  the  ci 
tivator  is  a  close  observer,  considering  the  conditions  under  which  th 
are  grown. 

All  concede  that  fresh  cut  sod  piled  late  the  preceding  fall  with  or 
fourth  of  its  bulk  of  decomposed  manure,  makes  an  excellent  compost. 

Repotting — Turn  out  the  plants,  take  them  with  the  left  hand  ai 
place  in  the  new  pot  (which  is  generally  an  inch  larger  than  the  one  fro 
which  they  were  removed)  so  that  the  ball  is  a  half  an  inch  below  the  ri 


"This  chapter  is  largely  writings  which  have  appeared  in  the  Amei 
can  Florist  and  are  from  T.  D.  Hatfield,  Wellesley,  Mass.,  who  has  be» 
eminently  successful  in  this  important  branch  of  chrysanthemum  cultui 


SPECIMEN  PLANTS  9 

of  the  pot  and  the  plant  stands  in  the  center.  While  held  in  this  position 
fill  in  sufficient  soil  and  firm  gently  with  a  stick  around  the  pot,  until  it 
is  filled  level  with  the  original  ball  of  earth.  If  the  soil  is  retentive  and 
rather  wet,  the  ramming  process  can  be  carried  to  extremes,  but  if  of  a 
light  nature,  it  should  be  made  rather  firm,  and  when  the  final  potting  is 
done,  it  can  scarcely  be  carried  to  excess. 

Stopping — The  term  "stopping"  means  pinching  out  the  center  of  a 
shoot,  and  the  object  is  to  force  the  plant  to  make  several  growths  instead 
of  the  present  one. 

When  the  plants  are  established  in  four-inch  pots,  they  are  generally 
from  four  to  six  inches  high,  and  at  this  stage  the  pinching  and  stopping 
begins.  This  should  be  done  a  few  days  before  repotting  or  deferred  until 
after  the  plants  have  made  roots  into  the  new  soil.  This  induces  the 
plant  to  make  several  side  shoots,  and  as  soon  as  these  have  attained 
four  or  five  inches  in  length  they  are  again  stopped.  This  work  is  repeated 
throughout  the  season  up  to  August  10th.  Some  of  the  varieties  may 
be  stopped  a  trifle  later,  but  each  cultivator  must  know  the  flowering  time 
of  those  under  his  care.  The  early  varieties  set  bud  earlier,  and  it  may  be 
wise  to  discontinue  stopping  some  of  these  as  early  as  August  1st.  By 
April  1st  to  15th  the  plants  should  be  in  full  vigor  and  ready  to  shift  into 
six-inch  pots;  with  this  potting  use  a  richer  soil  by  adding  to  the  ordinary 
compost  a  dusting  of  wood  ashes,  and  a  little  pulverized  sheep  manure. 
The  latter  should  be  used  in  very  small  proportions. 

Drainage — Free  drainage  is  essential  and  we  would  recommend  char- 
coal to  be  used  for  such  varieties  as  are  liable  to  burn.  Coal  ashes  are 
also  a  good  material  for  this  purpose  and  may  be  used  as  advantageously 
tis  broken  crocks.  Pot  firmly  when  the  soil  is  light,  and  loosely  when 
the  soil  is  heavy.  At  this  stage  the  plants  are  carefully  observed,  their 
manner  of  growth  noted,  also  tendency  to  break,  and  liability  to  disease. 
The  good  as  well  as  the  bad  points  are  almost  certain  to  appear  during 
April,  and  only  such  as  promise  well  are  shifted  up  to  the  largest  sizes. 
Some  of  the  varieties  have  the  habit  of  setting  premature  buds  at  this 
stage  of  growth.  Such  conditions  are  unfavorable  to  the  production  of 
fine  specimens,  although  the  greater  majority  will  outgrow  this  defect 
after  the  blooming  period  has  passed. 

From  1st  to  15th  of  May  another  shift  will  be  necessary  and  this  time 
into  seven  or  eight-inch  pots,  according  to  the  varieties.  The  weaker- 
growing  should  be  put  into  the  smaller  size,  and  the  stronger  ones  into 
the  largest.  As  the  plants  at  this  season  begin  to  assume  some  size,  and 
owing  to  the  higher  temperature  which  prevails,  the  watering  will  need 
constant  attention.  In  repotting  at  this  time,  the  plants  should  be  set  lo\v 
enough  in  the  pot  to  allow  ample  space  for  water,  not  less  than  an  inch, 
but  better  an  inch  and  a  half,  to  hold  sufficient  water  to  saturate  all  parts 
of  the  soil. 

Final  Potting — The  final  potting  occurs  from  June  1st  to  15th ;  for 
this  give  a  richer  compost,  using  a  rather  rough  open  soil  containing  a 
large  portion  of  broken,  half-decomposed  sods.  This  must  be  packed 


10  SMITH'S    CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL 

more  firmly  in  the  pots.  A  close,  heavy  loam  is  bad,  but  if  it  must  be- 
used,  it  should  be  only  lightly  firmed;  sufficient  sharp  sand  may  be  used: 
to  keep  the  water  passing  out  freely. 

Watering — All  experts  agree  that  the  plants  should  never  suffer  for 
want  of  water,  and  consider  it  one  of  the  most  important  details  in  all 
stages  of  development.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  very  important  that  the- 
drainage  be  ample,  so  that  the  water  passes  through  freely,  thus  pre- 
venting stagnation,  a  condition  conducive  to  disease,  which  will  finally  re- 
sult in  failure. 

It  sometimes  occurs  that  the  exact  condition  of  plants  in  pots  is  not 
fully  indicated  by  the  appearance  of  the  soil.  A  very  accurate  course  to 
follow  is  to  rap  the  pots  with  the  knuckles  or  a  stick ;  those  that  are  wret 
have  a  dull  sound,  those  that  are  dry  a  hollow  sound.  A  few  days'  trial 
will  teach  the  operator  to  detect  the  difference  in  sound  in  an  instant. 

Staking — During  August  many  of  the  plants  will  have  attained  con- 
siderable height,  even  though  they  have  been  stopped  every  few  days. 
Those  which  are  inclined  to  make  too  dense  growth  should  be  provided 
with  a  few  stakes  and  the  branches  gradually  tied  out  to  the  desired  form, 
thus  making  a  foundation  to  build  upon  later.  These  stakes  will  need  to 
be  removed  later  on,  and  replaced  by  larger  ones,  when  it  is  determined 
how  tall  the  plants  are  likely  to  grow. 

Early  in  September  it  will  be  necessary  to  consider  the  final  staking 
and  tying  out.  The  main  object  in  specimen  plants  is  to  develop  as  many 
growing  shoots  as  possible  before  the  middle  of  August,  arranging  them 
so  as  to  keep  the  plants  even  and  regular  in  form.  How  this  is  to  be 
done  is  somewhat  a  matter  of  taste,  but  it  is  easier  to  do  it  all  at  once, 
as  more  shapely  plants  can  be  formed.  If  the  plants  are  desired  for  ex- 
hibition purposes  and  to  be  transported  some  distance  to  the  exhibition 
hall,  the  stake  system  is  preferable  to  that  of  the  wire  frame,  the  advant- 
age being  that  plants  tied  to  stakes  can  be  drawn  together  so  there  will  be 
no  friction,  and  at  the  same  time  occupy  much  less  space. 

The  best  course  to  follow  in  the  matter. of  staking  and  tying  largely 
depends  upon  the  size  and  form  to  which  they  are  to  be  trained.  The 
Japanese  growers  shape  their  plants  into  many  artistic  designs,  such  as 
crosses,  fans,  boats,  parasols,  etc.  When  such  forms  are  to  be  perfected, 
it  is  necessary  to  make  a  temporary  frame-work  of  wire  or  stakes  to  which 
the  shoots  may  be  tied  out  into  the  form  desired,  and  this  should  be  pro- 
vided before  the  plants  attain  any  great  size.  The  forms  generally  adopted 
for  exhibition  groups  are  round  and  slightly  elevated  in  the  center,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  4.  page  12,  and  are  grown  all  sizes  from  three  to  six  feet 
in  height  and  nearly  as  wide. 

The  operation  of  staking  is  simply  placing  stakes  into  the  soil,  the 
outer  ones  at  such  an  angle  as  to  bring  the  branches  in  the  desired  posi- 
tion to  give  the  plant  the  required  diameter.  Additional  stakes  are  sup- 
plemented to  hold  the  inner  branches  in  position. 

The  best  material  for  trying  is  silkaline,  which  does  not  slip;  being 
soft,  does  not  injure  the  shoots,  and  as  its  color  is  green,  is  not  so  con- 
spicuous as  where  white  string  is  used. 


SPECIMEN  PLANTS  11 

Tying  out  should  not  be  left  too  long;  in  fact,  it  should  be  done 
every  few  days.  There  are  always  some  overgrown,  vigorous  shoots  which 
are  difficult  to  accommodate,  but  while  supple  they  will  bend  easily.  A 
bad  hole  or  open  space  can  sometimes  be  filled  by  these  strong  growths, 
bending  them  down  and  tying  securely.  When  specimen  plants  are  grown 
for  conservatory  decoration,  or  where  they  can  be  practically  transported 
to  the  exhibition  hall,  the  wire  frames  may  be  used. 

When  wire  frames  are  used,  tie  as.  many  shoots  as  possible  to  the 
lower  part  of  the  frame,  as  the  greatest  danger  is  congestion  at  the  top. 

Disbudding — The  operation  of  disbudding  will  need  attention  early 
in  September,  the  early  varieties  setting  buds  first  and  the  later  ones  fol- 
lowing, according  to  the  natural  flowering  time.  For  early  exhibitions, 
say  the  1st  of  November,  buds  should  be  prominent  by  September  15,  and 
showing  color  four  weeks  later.  At  least  three  weeks  are  required  after 
they  show  color  until  maturity. 

Generally  all  the  specimen  plants  produce  terminal  buds ;  each  shoot 
bearing  a  cluster  at  the  extremity,  which  is  disbudded  so  as  to  leave 
only  one  bud  to  each,  and  this  the  center  one.  In  this  way  the  flowers  are 
uniform  in  size,  and  if  the  plant  has  been  well  trained  and  tied  out,  these 
individual  blooms  will  nearly  touch  each  other. 

After  setting  buds,  the  plants  will  begin  sending  out  suckers  from  the 
roots  in  nil  directions,  which,  if  allowed  to  remain,  rob  the  buds  of  the 
nourishment  which  has  been  provided  for  their  development.  These 
should  Ite  removed  at  once  and  this  operation  repeated  as  often  as  they 
appear,  as  well  as  any  lateral  growths  which  may  start  from  the  shoots. 

Feeding — The  application  of  stimulants  requires  careful  consideration 
and  should  be  entrusted  only  to  persons  of  judgment  and  discretion.  With 
the  roots  so  much  confined  in  the  pots,  even  more  care  is  required  than 
where  the  bench  system  is  employed  in  the  production  of  cut  blooms. 

The  pots  must  be  filled  with  roots  and  the  drainage  perfectly  free 
to  begin  with.  If  cow  manure  is  used  as  a  top  dressing,  would  be  best 
to  dry  it  first  and  afterwards  break  into  small  pieces.  This  acts  as  a 
mulch  and  fertilizer  at  the  same  time.  As  a  safe  and  lasting  stimulant, 
pulverized  sheep  manure  is  preferred,  which  should  be  applied  in  the  form 
of  a  top  dressing,  adding  a  little  sandy  loam  to  keep  it  open.  Liquid 
manure  may  also  be  used  if  the  plant  continues  healthy,  applying  once  a 
week  at  first  and  twice  or  three  times  a  week  later.  Sulphate  of  am- 
monium and  nitrate  of  soda  a^e  sometimes  used  with  wonderful  results, 
but  must  be  applied  with  discretion. 

From  the  time  the  buds  are  set,  success  depends  very  much  upon  the 
judicious  use  of  fertilizers,  either  in  liquid  form  or  a  top  dressing.  Some 
plants  will  take  liquid  manure  in  liberal  amounts :  others,  if  so  treated, 
are  easily  injured.  Over-feeding  shows  itself  in  yellow,  stunted  foliage. 
When  this  occurs,  use  clear  water  and  let  them  get  as  dry  as  they  can 
with  safety. 

The  grower  needs  to  be  acquainted  with  the  plants  as  with  individuals : 
it  is  a  matter  of  experience  and,  when  carefully  done,  may  be  continued 


12 


SMITH'S    CHRYSANTHEMUM    MANUAL 


*  9 

M       1-5 


6 


SPECIMEN   PLANTS  13 

until  the  buds  show  color.  It  is,  however,  worthy  to  note  that  pink  and 
red  varieties,  including  bronze,  show  lack  of  color  and  also  burn  easily 
if  feeding  is  continued  too  long.  Clay's  fertilizer  is  a  good  manure  and 
perfectly  safe  to  use  either  as  a  liquid  or  top  dressing  mixed  with  a  little 
loam.  Soot  water  at  times  and  weak  lime  water  will  sweeten  the  soil. 
The  drainage  must,  however,  be  kept  free,  and  this  is  sometimes  diffi- 
cult at  the  end  of  the  season,  when  the  pots  are  filled  with  roots.  Punch- 
ing holes  through  the  ball  to  the  drainage  will  generally  relieve  water- 
logged plants. 


CHAPTER  V. 


MISCELLANEOUS   PLANTS 


Standards — The  cultural  directions  given  for  specimen  plants  will  be 
suitable  for  this  purpose.  The  greatest  difference  being  the  training  al- 
lowing them  to  grow  without  stopping  until  they  have  attained  the  desired 
height.  Standards  are  generally  about  five  feet  to  the  lower  branches, 

although  there  is  no  fixed 
rule  on  this  subject,  and 
they  may  be  grown  any 
height,  from  three  feet 
(which  are  termed  hair- 
standards,)  to  the  height 
mentioned  above.  It  Is 
necessary  the  cuttings  be 
propagated  early.  When 
needed,  provide  with  one 
strong  stake  for  each  plant, 
to  which  it  is  tied  to  keep 
the  stem  straight.  As  soon 
as  they  reach  the  desired 
height  pinch  out  the  center. 
The  several  breaks  which 
follow  form  the  foundation 
for  top  or  head  of  the 
standard.  These  are  nip- 
ped every  few  days  the 
same  as  specimen  plants. 
The  training  will  require 

some  care  and  attention  as  well  as  disbudding,  feeding  and  other  details. 
For  Market — Dwarf  plants  of  symmetrical  form,  with  foliage  down 
to  the  pots,  are  the  most  salable,  and  when  thus  grown  require  constant 
attention  as  to  watering  and  stopping,  allowing  each  plant  plenty  of  room 
to  keep  the  lower  leaves  in  a  healthy  condition.  Cuttings  taken  June  1st 
and  grown  on,  either  in  pots,  planted  on  old  carnation  benches,  or  in 
spent  hot-beds  (light  soil  preferable)  and  lifted  by  August  15th  will  make 
very  nice  plants  1%  to  2  feet  high.  The  reason  for  lifting  early  is  to  have 
them  well  established  in  their  flowering  pots  before  the  buds  are  formed. 
Another  system  is  sometimes  employed  which  gives  very  dwarf  sym- 
metrical plants  and  often  utilizes  considerable  stock  that  would  otherwise 
be  worthless.  Cuttings  that  were  struck  late  in  June  and  potted  in  two- 
inch  pots  may  be  put  several  together  in  one  pot  about  August  1st,  pro- 
vided they  are  in  thrifty  condition.  Three  plants  to  a  five-inch  pot  and 


FIG.    5.       MARKET   PLANT 


MISCELLANEOUS  PLANTS  15 

five  or  six  to  a  seven-inch  and  so  on.  By  sorting  and  placing  the  taller 
in  the  center  and  shorter  at  the  edge,  very  symmetrical  plants  may  be 
had.  Disbudding  and  feeding  will  need  attention  to  assure  best  results. 

Single  Stemmed — The  same  culture  as  given  for  market  plants  will 
suffice  for  this  class,  except  they  are  generally  grown  in  pots  and  restrict- 
ed to  one  stem  and  flower.  Those  from  one  to  two  feet  in  height  are  more 
effective  and  useful  than  taller  ones;  for  this  reason  many  prefer  plung- 
ing out-of-doors  where  they  will  have  full  benefit  of  the  sun  and  air, 
making  them  more  dwarf  than  when  grown  under  glass. 

Cuttings  rooted  early  in  June  are  best  for  this  purpose.  They  must 
be  repotted,  staked  and  tied  as  their  needs  demand.  In  July  the  final 
potting  takes  place  and  the  soil  should  be  made  very  firm  to  secure  short- 
jointed  growth. 

Miniature — There  has  not  been  much  attention  given  to  this  class  in 
this  country,  although  cultural  directions  are  given  in  many  of  the  old 
English  works. 

The  best  time  to  take  cuttings  is  from  the  first  to  the  last  of  August, 
according  to  the  earliness  of  the  variety.  They  are  taken  at  the  period 
when  the  buds  are  just  beginning  to  form  and  if  delayed  until  very  far 
advanced,  the  wood  becomes  hardened  and  will  not  root  freely.  These 
cuttings  should  be  potted  immediately  into  light  soil  and  placed  in  a  close 
frame  which  has  been  made  the  same  as  a  hotbed  with  fresh  manure  to 
give  forth  a  gentle  bottom  heat. 

In  selecting  cuttings  take  strong  shoots  from  plants  in  the  open 
border  or  those  grown  under  glass,  and  if  the  selection  is  made  from 
those  which  naturally  do  not  grow  high,  so  much  the  better.  A  3  to  3  % 
inch  pot  is  large  enough  for  this  purpose.  After  the  cuttings  have  been 
plunged  therein  they  must  be  covered  with  a  sash  and  shaded  to  keep  out 
the  strong  light.  It  is  also  advisable  to  spray  them  over  two  or  three 
times  a  day  which  will  maintain  the  most  genial  condition  for  root  for- 
mation. 

As  soon  as  rooted  (which  may  be  ascertained  by  turning  them  out) 
air  should  be  given  the  frame,  a  little  at  first  and  increasing  every  few 
days,  to  gradually  harden  the  plants  to  a  natural  condition.  In  this  man- 
ner plants  can  be  had  8  inches  high  with  blooms  5  inches  in  diameter. 

For  Cut  Flowers — The  pot  system  is  employed  by  all  English  growers 
and  doubtless  most  of  those  on  the  Continent.  Culture,  same  as  for  Mar- 
ket or  Single  Stem  as  far  as  training  is  concerned,  shifting  from  time  to 
time  as  directed  for  specimen  plants.  Propagation  may  take  place 
from  February  to  May,  according  to  the  variety  and  requirements  of  the 
cultivator.  Throughout  England  these  plants  are  potted  and  plunged  in 
the  open  border  as  soon  as  danger  of  frost  is  over,  and  could  be  so  treated 
in  this  country  if  it  were  not  for  the  ravishes  of  the  Tarnished  Plant  Bug, 
which  is  so  numerous. 

If  exhibition  blooms  are  desired  they  may  be  grown  to  single  stem, 
or  stopped  early  in  June,  saving  three  breaks  which  are  grown  on,  each 
to  produce  a  flower  later. 


16  SMITH'S    CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL 

Grafting — There  are  two  objects  in  grafting  chrysanthemums,  first, 
to  increase  the  vitality  of  weak  growing  varieties  by  grafting  upon  strong 
kinds.  Second,  to  display  a  number  of  varieties  on  one  plant  at  the  same 
time.  To  the  experienced  gardener  this  art  is  of  little  or  no  interest,  but 
to  the  novice  there  is  something  wonderful  in  the  sight  of  a  plant  having 
a  dozen  or  more  distinct  varieties  flowering  simultaneously.  Such  plants 
attract 'a  great  deal  of  attention  at  the  exhibitions. 

Where  it  is  the  desire  to  increase  the  vitality,  cuttings  are  struck  in 
the  autumn  or  winter  months,  and  grown  on  in  a  cold  greenhouse  until 
early  spring.  These  are  used  as  stock  upon  which  to  graft,  and  should 
be  done  in  March  or  April.  Select  scions  from  the  weak  growing  kinds 
and  cut  the  end  in  the  form  of  a  wedge.  After  cutting  out  the  top  of  the 
stock  an  inch  or  so  above  the  ground,  make  a  slit  an  inch  in  depth  in  the 
stump  and  insert  the  wedge  shaped  scion,  tying  securely  in  place  with 
raffia  or  light  cotton  yarn. 

It  is  necessary  that  the  wood  of  both  stock  and  scion  be  in  a  half- 
ripened  condition,  reasonably  firm,  and  if  possible  have  both  the  same 
size.  In  case  it  is  impossible  to  find  scions  of  the  same  diameter  as  the 
stock,  the  scion  should  be  set  to  one  side  of  the  incision  so  that  the  bark 
of  both  will  be  even  on  one  side.  A  moist,  warm  corner  of  the  greenhouse 
or  any  place  where  a  close  atmosphere  can  be  maintained  for  a  few  days 
will  be  necessary  to  insure  their  uniting.  If  the  weather  is  warm  and  the 
sun  very  bright  it  is  sometimes  advisable  to  shade  the  planes  to  prevent, 
scion  from  wilting,  and  occasionally  sphagnum  moss  is  wrapped  around 
the  union  and  the  foliage  moistened  to  prevent  to  rapid  evaporation.  As 
soon  as  the  scions  become  established,  which  is  generally  in  the  course 
of  eight  or  ten  days,  the  tying  material  can  be  removed  and  the  plants 
given  more  air,  receiving  the  same  care  and  attention  as  other  plants. 

For  grafted  specimens  it  is  important  that  all  the  varieties  should 
flower  at  the  same  time,  and  to  secure  maximum  effect  some  thought 
should  be  given  to  arrangement  of  the  colors.  The  most  showy  specimens 
are  produced  by  grafting  upon  strong  growing  standards,  using  one  variety 
to  each  shoot.  All  lateral  growths  or  breaks  starting  out  of  the  stock 
should  be  removed  as  fast  as  they  appear. 

In  Open  Border — Most  of  the  previous  forms  of  plants  may  be  grown 
in  the  open  border  with  fairly  good  success.  The  essential  points  are 
that  they  be  planted  on  light  soil  which  permits  of  their  being  taken  up 
without  breaking  away  too  many  roots.  If  large  specimen  plants  are  to 
be  treated  this  way,  ample  space  must  be  given  so  they  do  not  become 
crowded,  and  afford  the  operator  room  to  attend  to  stopping,  etc. 

The  lifting  and  potting  should  be  done  not  later  than  August  15th, 
s;o  that  the  plants  will  become  well  established  in  their  new  quarters  be- 
fore buds  are  formed.  After  potting  it  is  necessary  they  have  a  copious 
watering  and  be  set  in  a  sheltered  place  out  of  the  sun  and  strong  drafts 
as  much  as  possible.  An  old  shed  that  will  afford  some  light  is  a  very 
suitable  place. 

From  this  time  on  little  water  will  be  required  at  the  root  until  they 


MISCELLANEOUS  PLANTS  17 

have  become  thoroughly  established.  It  will  be  advisable,  however,  to 
dew  over  the  foliage  several  times  each  day  to  prevent  flagging.  As  soon 
us  established;  give  light,  gradually  increased  each  day  until  they  can 
stand  full  sun. 

Hardy  Chrysanthemums — Most  Chrysanthemums  are  hardy  out-of- 
doors  in  the  northern  states  with  slight  protection  as  far  as  their  roots 
are  concerned,  but  fail  to  be  satisfactory  owing  to  early  frosts  which  ruin 
the  buds  when  in  a  half-developed  condition.  The  most  serviceable  varie- 
ties are  the  early  flowering  rompons,  which  perfect  their  flowers  before 
frost.  Many  of  the  later  ones  can  be  used  to  advantage  in  the  southern 
states,  or  in  localities  where  severe  frosts  are  not  expected  until  the  mid- 
dle of  November. 


C.H AFTER   VI. 


PACKING    PLANTS 


For  Express — For  shipments  not  requiring  more  than  five  or  six  days 
to  reach  destination,  pack  in  wooden  boxes  that  have  been  previously  lined 
with  paper  or  other  material  to  keep  out  the  frost.  The  plants  should  be 
thoroughly  watered,  turned  out  of  the  pots  and  wrapped  tight  in  some 
sort  of  pliable  paper  to  keep  the  earth  intact.  With  a  light  coat  of  ex- 
celsior on  the  bottom  of  the  box,  the  plants  are  then  placed  in  rows  close 

together  on  their  sides,  with  ball 
of  earth  next  to  end  of  the  box. 
This  is  followed  by  another  row 
in  which  the  ball  is  placed  next 
to  that  in  the  first  row,  the 
operation  being  repeated  until 
bottom  of  the  box  is  covered. 
In  putting  in  the  next  tier,  re- 
verse them,  beginning  at  the 
other  end  and  so  continue  until 
finished.  The  main  object  is  to 
pack  securely,  preventing  them 
from  shifting,  even  though 
roughly  handled.  Any  inter- 
vening spaces  between  the 
plants  and  side  or  top  of  the 
box  should  be  filled  with  ex- 
celsior, sawdust,  or  some  other 
material,  so  that  if  the  pack- 
age is  turned  upside  down  they 
cannot  move  about.  (See  Fig.  6.) 

Inexperienced  packers  invariably  fail  in  this  respect  and  often  when 
the  plants  reach  destination  they  have  so  shifted  in  the  box  as  to  be  en- 
tirely destitute  of  soil,  as  well  as  badly  broken.  See  to  it  that  they  can- 
not move. 

Each  variety  must  be  labeled  and  some  means  provided  so  that  the 
recipient  can  unpack  without  danger  of  getting  them  mixed.  A  system 
many  have  adopted  is  to  wrap  one,  two,  three  or  four  plants  of  a  kind  into 
a  bundle,  each  bundle  being  provided  with  a  label,  and  are  thus  packed. 
Where  five  or  more  of  a  kind  are  ordered  they  are  separated  by  a  sheet 
of  paper. 

In  very  severe  weather  it  is  sometimes  necessary  to  wrap  the  boxes 
with  several  thicknesses  of  paper  as  a  safeguard  against  frost.  In  very 
warm  weather  the  foregoing  method  is  impractical,  as  they  are  likely  to 
heat  and  thus  be  ruined.  From  May  to  October  the  plants  are  generally 


FIG.   6.      BOX   OF  PLANTS 


PROPERLY  PACKED. 


PACKING  PLANTS  19 

trapped  and  set  upright  in  shallow  boxes  which  have  been  provided  with 
a  post  in  each  corner  to  which  cleats  are  nailed.  Then  slats  are  placed  an 
Inch  apart  to  form  the  cover,  thus  assuring  a  free  circulation  of  air. 

For  Mail — In  packing  plants  for  mail  shipments  the  soil  is  washed 
1'roin  the  roots,  these  are  then  wrapped  in  damp  moss  and  wax  paper  in 
small  bundles,  containing  not  to  exceed  25  in  each  bundle.  These  are  gen- 
erally labeled  with  a  tough  paper  label  and  packed  in  parafine  lined  boxes 
or  those  made  of  corrugated  board.  All  unoccupied  space  must  be  filled 
firmly  with  excelsior  or  similar  material. 

For  Export — In  packing  for  export  there  are  two  systems  employee!, 
one  for  the  winter  months,  when  they  are  packed  tight,  and  the  other 
for  summer,  which  should  provide  light  and  air  to  the  plants.  When 
packed  close,  excessive  moisture  is  to  be  strongly  guarded  against.  Under 
Rich  conditions  the  plants  are  sure  to  rot  if  they  are  to  remain  packed 
more  than  six  days.  There  is  sufficient  moisture  in  the  plant  itself  to 
retain  vitality  for  some  time,  and  whatever  is  used  to  fill  up  the  inter- 
vening spaces  should  be  perfectly  dry.  Moss,  excelsior  or  cocoanut  fiber 
are  the  best  materials  for  filling. 

Plants  that  are  to  be  exported  should  be  put  into  a  cold,  airy  house 
for  a  week  or  ten  days  and  watered  very  sparingly  so  as  to  harden  the 
wood,  as  they  usually  perish  in  transit  if  the  growth  is  soft.  Before  plac- 
ing in  the  boxes  remove  most  of  the  foliage  as  it  is  very  apt  to  die  and 
cause  decay.  The  balls  of  earth  should  be  wrapped  in  dry  moss  and  tied 
securely.  Place  the  plants  in  an  upright  position,  on  the  bottom  of  the 
"box,  using  a  cleat  to  each  row ;  to  hold  them  secure.  If  the  weather  is 
severe,  protection  against  frost  will  be  necessary,  and  may  be  provided  as 
j»reviously  described. 

In  hot  weather  the  same  method  is  employed  with  the  exception  that 
damp  moss  is  used,  wrapping  each  ball  with  wax  paper.  Holes  are  bored 
through  the  sides  of  the  box  to  admit  light  and  air.  The  holes  are  gen- 
erally covered  on  the  inside  of  the  box  with  galvanized  wire  screen  to 
keep  mice  from  girdling  them  while  on  ship-board. 

Small  foreign  shipments  are  sometimes  made  by  removing  the  soil  and 
placing  the  plants  in  tin  boxes,  filling  the  intervening  spaces  with  dry 
cocanut  fiber  or  moss.  It  is  very  important  when  packed  in  this  manner 
that  all  the  leaves  be  removed  except  those  undeveloped  at  the  top.  If 
the  plants  have  been  hardened  there  will  be  little  loss.  It  is  easy  to  test 
any  system  of  packing,  by  preparing  a  shipment,  and  lay  it  away  for  a 
period  equal  to  that  required  in  transportation,  after  which  it  may  be 
•opened  and  the  condition  of  the  plants  carefully  noted,  or  if  desired  pot 
them  to  ascertain  how  many  will  survive. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

COMMERCIAL   FLOWERS. 

The  general  public  do  not  consider  the  difference  in  character  of  the 
many  varieties  now  grown,  but  admire  them  for  the  beauty  displayed. 
With  the  Florist  it  is  far  different  as  he  raises  flowers  for  the  sole  pur- 
pose of  placing  them  on  the  market  from  a  remunerative  standpoint  and 
thus  should  l>e  familiar  with  their  merits  and  defects. 

Commercial  varieties  are  those  which  possess  the  desired  qualifications 
and  characteristics  to  meet  the  demands  of  the  grower,  wholesaler  and 
consumer. 

Those  most  in  demand  are  of  easy  culture,  growing  only  to  a  mod- 
erate height  (not  to  exceed  four  feet)  and  produce  flowers  of  pleasing- 
colors.  White  is  probably  in  greatest  demand,  next  comes  yellow,  then 
pink ;  with  a  decided  preference  to  those  which  are  most  pure  in  their 
respective  color  tones. 

Red  and  bronze  are  grown  in  comparatively  small  quantities. 
Form  and  substance  are  both  given  consideration  ;  those  that  do  not 
ship  well  are  soon  condemned. 

When  the  stock  is  to  be  handled  through  the  commission  houses  and 
reshipped  to  the  retailer,  the  incurved  varieties  generally  stand  the 
handling  with  least  injury. 

As  a  rule  the  Foreign  varieties  do  not  meet  the  requirements  of  the 
commercial  grower.  It  is  imperative  they  be  planted  early,  selecting  crown 
bud  to  secure  double  flowers.  If  planted  in  July  very  few  of  those  from 
abroad  can  compare  with  American  sorts.  The  reason  is  obvious. 

The  Foreign  raisers  of  seedlings,  reserve  those  which  produce  the 
largest  flowers — irrespective  of  other  characteristics,  as  the  exhibition 
class  is  most  in  demand. 

In  America  the  bulk  of  the  plants  sold  are  those  having  commercial 
merit,  hence  those  interested,  select  from  their  seedlings  those  producing 
the  most  pleasing  colors,  best  foliage  with  strong,  erect  stems  in  pref- 
erence to  size  alone. 

The  grower  who  invests  largely  in  foreign  sorts,  with  the  expectation  of 
superior  quality  of  salable  stock,  is  prone  to  disappointment.  Inability  to 
plant  early,  as  well  as  failing  to  give  as  close  attention  to  details  as  the  ex- 
hibition expert  can,  are  the  causes  of  the  grower's  downfall. 

The  length  of  time  required  to  produce  the  crop,  whether  the  desired 
date  of  flowering  be  early,  midseason  or  late  and  the  quality  of  blooms 
best  suited  for  the  grower's  trade,  are  matters  which  must  receive  con- 
sideration before  selecting  the  kinds  and  deciding  upon  the  best  cultural 
methods. 

As  the  vigor  of  the  plants  has  much  to  do  with  the  quality  of  blooms, 
we  would  recommend  planting  stock  of  midseason  kinds  from  2-inch  pots 


COMMERCIAL   FLOWERS  21 

early  in  June  (early  and  late  varieties  will  be  treated  under  separate 
headings).  Cuttings  struck  early  in  April  should  he  in  fine  condition  for 
June  planting,  nine  inches  apart  each  way  is  about  the  right  distance. 
II'  the  demand  is  for  medium  rather  than  large  flowers  they  may  he  stop- 
ped, allowing  two  or  more  breaks  to  grow  on,  each  to  make  a  bloom. 

Soil — Fibrous  sods  cut  .">  inches  thick  and  piled  grass  side  down  the 
preceding  fall  with  one-fifth  their  bulk  of  halt*  decomposed  immure  makes 
an  excellent  compost  for  filling  the  benches.  If  it  is  heavy  clay  some 
sharp  sand  should  be  added  to  increase  the  porosity. 

Four  or  five  inches  of  soil  in  the  bench  is  the  right  depth,  the  former 
preferable.  When  planting  firm  well  around  the  plants,  leaving  a  slight 


FIG.    7.       BENCH    OF    "IVORY"    TIED    TO    WIRES. 

depression  to  receive  the  first  few  waterings,  the  object  of  this  course  is  to 
keep  the  soil  from  becoming  sour.  As  soon  as  there  are  signs  of  active 
growth  which,  usually  requires  about  two  weeks,  the  water  should  be  in- 
creased gradually  until  the  whole  is  thoroughly  saturated. 

Fresh  cut  sods  are  equally  serviceable  provided  they  are  properly 
handled.  If  cut  as  directed  three  inches  thick,  one  thickness  may  be  laid 
grass  side  down  and  the  remainder  of  the  bench  space  filled  with  fine  soil, 
or  they  may  be  run  through  a  sod  crusher,  placing  the  coarser  part  at 
the  bottom  and  the  fine  on  top.  If  either  these  methods  are  adopted  a 
light  covering  of  manure  may  be  placed  on  the  bottom  of  the  bench  before 
filling.  We  have  grown  thousands  of  fine  blooms  without  the  use  of  ma- 
nure, relying  upon  light  applications  of  chemicals  as  the  plants  required  it. 
Fibrous  sods  supply  abundance  of  humus  which  is  so  essential  to  plant  life. 

Tiiimj — As  soon  as  the  plants  are  8  inches  in  height  some  arrange- 
ment must  be  made  for  staking  and  tying.  There  are  several  systems : — 


22  SMITH'S    CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL 

dwarf,  short-jointed  varieties,  like  Merza  and  others,  may  be  tied  to  wires 
running  full  length  of  the  row,  supplying  additional  wires  when  required. 
See  Fig.  7. 

Some  use  stakes  fastened  at  the  top  to  a  wire  stretched  tight  over  each 
row.  Most  commercial  places  use  the  twine  system,  which  consists  of  two 
wires,  one  over  each  row  of  plants  and  the  other  a  few  inches  above  the 
•&oil.  Two-ply  jute  twine  is  cut  the  proper  length  and  tied  to  top  and  bottom 
wire.  To  this  twine  the  plants  are  tied  as  often  as  required.  See  Fig.  8. 

Watering — From  this  time  on  the  principal  detail  is  watering,  which 
requires  constant  attention  and  whosoever  has  this  charge  must  rely  on 
his  own  discretion.  The  plants  being  vigorous,  will  use  up  quantities  of 
water  each  day  and  from  this  time  until  the  flowers  are  cut  they  must  not 


FIG.    8.      BENCH    SHOWING   PLANTS   TIED  TO  TWINE. 


suffer  for  the  want  of  it.  At  the  same  time  we  must  guard  against  over- 
doing, particularly  is  this  the  case  with  many  of  the  weaker  growing  sorts 
which  suddenly  tell  us  of  our  mal-treatment  by  the  foliage  beginning  to 
turn  yellow,  showing  a  sickly  appearance.  The  best  remedy  is  withholding 
vater,  not  to  a  degree  that  will  injure  the  plant  for  want  of  it,  but  suffi- 
cient to  restore  its  normal  condition.  Let  the  appearance  of  the  foliage  be 
an  index  to  the  supply  of  water. 

As  long  as  the  foliage  is  luxuriant  and  healthy  in  color  we  may  feel 
assured  that  the  supply  of  water  is  not  in  excess  of  their  demands. 

To  maintain  these  conditions  it  is  important  that  all  dry  spots  in  the 
.benches  be  thoroughly  watered  before  spraying  the  plants. 


COMMERCIAL  FLOWERS  23 

Those  who  prefer  to  do  watering  and  spraying  in  one  operation  should 
walk  backward,  watering  the  dry  spots  as  they  appear  and  then  do  the 
spraying.  If  the  spray  reaches  the  dry  spots  their  identity  is  lost  and  thus 
are  passed  by  without  fully  saturating. 

Spraying — Spraying  overhead  will  be  necessary  to  keep  Red  Spiders 
in  check,  which  are  very  hard  to  control.  This  process  will  require  some 
judgment,  for  if  repeated  too  often  or  late  in  the  day  it  is  apt  to  cause 
rust  and  other  diseases.  There  is  not  so  much  danger  during  the  hot  sum- 
mer months,  but  from  August  15th  to  flowering  time  no  water  should  be 
applied  after  3  p.  m.,  so  that  the  plants  will  be  perfectly  dry  by  night. 
(See  diseases.) 

Airing — The  chrysanthemum  does  not  enjoy  a  close,  stuffy  atmosphere, 
hence  an  abundance  of  air  during  the  growing  season  is  important 

Not  only  during  the  day  but  night  also,  at  all  times  unless  the  build- 
ing is  in  jeopardy  from  approachingg  violent  storms. 

Shading — A  few  years  ago  it  was  considered  necessary  to  give  a  light 
shading  through  the  summer  months  to  Chrysanthemums  planted  under 
glass.  This  is  hardly  necessary  in  most  localities,  as  shorter  jointed  plants 
and  firmer  wood  result  from  full  exposure  to  the  sun. 

At  the  approach  of  color  it  is  quite  important  the  pink  and  red  varie- 
ties be  partly  shaded  from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  as  these  colors  seem 
to  be  easily  faded.  There  may  be  localities  where  this  would  be  unneces- 
sary, but  in  the  middle  states  it  often  continues  warm  and  bright  into 
October  and  such  precaution  is  necessary  to  secure  color  of  the  highest 
degree. 

Scalding — After  a  few  days  of  dull  weather  (which  makes  the  growth 
unusually  soft),  followed  by  very  bright  sun,  the  young  tips  sometimes 
scald  or  burn.  In  such  cases  use  every  effort  to  prevent  them  from  wilting. 
Frequent  spraying  will  keep  the  atmosphere  charged  with  moisture  and 
be  very  beneficial.  Should  this  fall,  apply  a  li.^ht  shading  of  clay  to  the 
glass.  This  is  prepared  by  adding  sufficient  clay  to  water  to  make  it 
muddy  and  applied  by  spraying  over  the  roof.  It  is  unwise  to  use  a  per- 
manent shading,  and  the  one  suggested  will  disappear  with  the  first  shower 
or  by  spraying. 

Feeding — All  plants  are  sustained  by  the  constituents  of  the  soil  of 
which  Nitrogen,  Potash  and  Phosphoric  Acid  are  the  chief  elements. 

What  effect  each  of  these  factors  have  upon  the  construction  of  the 
plant  and  its  floreseent  need  not  be  discussed  at  this  time.  When  these 
nutritive  ingredients  are  exhausted,  liquid  applications  are  given  to  supply 
their  needs  and  it  is  this  operation  to  which  the  term  feeding  is  usually 
applied.  The  effect  of  such  applications  are  revealed  by  the  appearance 
of  the  plants  and  the  resultant  flowers  thus  produced.  From  this  it  is  evi- 
dent that  what  actually  takes  place  in  this  construction  of  plant  life  is  very 
obscure,  hence  we  must  be  governed  wholly  by  observance,  determining 
their  needs  by  what  is  presented  to  us  in  their  growth. 

There  are  several  ways  to  reach  this  desired  end,  viz :  first  top  dressing 


24 


SMITH'S    CHRYSANTHEMUM    MANUAL 


with  manure,  the  strength  of  which  is  taken  to  the  roots  in  liquid  form  by 
the  application  of  water.  Second,  by  extracting  the  soluble  parts  of  ma- 
nure, diluting  to  the  desired  degree  and  applying  in  solution ;  third,  the  use 
of  liquids  made  from  soluble  chemical  salts.  All  three  methods  are  equal 
as  far  as  producing  the  desired  crop  is  concerned  provided  they  are  judici- 
ously applied,  but  there  is  a  marked  difference  in  the  cost  of  material  and 
labor  involved.  The  present  price  of  manure,  the  labor  required  to  make 
it  accessible  to  the  plant  far  exceeds  the  cost  of  chemicals. 

Stable  manure  contains  1*4  per  cent  plant  food  (by  Government 
Analysis),  or  25  pounds  per  ton,  while  some  of  the  highly  concentrated 
chemical  fertilizers  now  on  the  market  contain  G5  per  cent  actual  plant 
food.  It  requires  2  3/5  tons  of  manure  to  supply  the  same  amount  contain- 
ed in  100  pounds  of  such  chemicals  and  when  we  consider  the  labor  re- 
quired to  handle  this  quantity  of  manure  when  used  as  a  top  dressing  or 
reduced  to  a  liquid,  even  the  casual  thinker  is  confronted  with  the  ques- 
tion— why  all  this  unnecessary  expense?  The  experimental  station  have 
taken  up  these  matters  in  detail  and  set  forth  in  their  reports  that  chemi- 
cals are  equal  to  natural  manures  in  the  production  of  crops. 

We  use  a  mixture  known  as  Chrysaline,  one  pound  of  which  is  as  effi- 
cient as  SO  Ibs  of  manure.  The  former  is  prefect ly  soluble  while  the  latter 
must  be  leached  in  some  way  before  it  is  available,  one  is  clean  and  odor- 
less as  so  much  salt,  the  other  dirty  and  offensive  .when  manipulated  In 
any  form.  The  strength  of  chemicals  are  known  quantities  and  constant, 
while  manures  are  uncertain  and  variable. 

Chemical  Fertilizers — In  the  case  of  chemical  fertilizers  most  of  the 
failures  are  due  to  too  strong  application.  A  few  years  ago  we  were  using 
Chrysaline  at  the  rate  of  1  ounce  to  (5  gallons  of  water,  but  recent  observa- 
tions indicate  it  should  not  be 
used  stronger  than  1  to  10  and 
when  the  soil  contains  consider- 
able manure  1  to  20  or  30  gal- 
lons gives  far  better  results 
when  used  before  the  buds  are 
selected.  Some  will  consider 
this  a  very  weak  solution,  but 
experience  has  shown  it  suffi- 
cient and  the  old  adage  "better 
be  safe  than  sorry"  will  be  ap- 
preciated by  those  who  use  such 
concentrated  chemicals  indis- 
criminately. 

Once  a  week  is  as  often  as  it 
should  be  applied  to  most  varie- 
ties and  never  when  the  plants 
show  signs  of  dryness.  A  very  good  plan  is  to  go  over  the  benches  and 
v.-ater  all  dry  spots  before  applying.  It  is  a  great  temptation  to  those  who 


FIG.   9.       APPEARANCE   OF 
FOLIAGE     WHEN     OVERFED. 


COMMERCIAL   FLOWERS 


have  not  used  chemical   fertilizers  to  over  do.     It   must  be  taken 
consideration   when   feeding   solutions    of   any    form    they    are   taken   up 

through  the  roots,  and  the  process  of 
assimilation    immediately    follows. 

Food  applied  in  this  way  is  more 
available  than  any  other,  and  herein 
lies  our  great  danger ;  we  are  apply- 
ing a  solution  that  is  colorless,  odor- 
less and  tasteless,  having  every  ap- 
pearance of  water. 

Liquid  Manure — Liquid  manure  was 
in  use  many  years  before  chemical 
fertilizers  were  known  and  in  the 
hands  of  the  inexperienced  is  much 
safer.  There  are  so  many  ways  of 
formulating  liquid  manures  that  it  is 
impossible  to  give  a  definite  rule  with 
assurance  of  having  the  best.  Those 
of  experience  know  by  the  color  when 
it  is  safe  to  use,  but  such  knowledge 
is  difficult  to  impart  to  others.  The 
following  rules  are  considered  safe: 
y2  bushel  of  horse  or  cow  manure  to 
1  barrel  of  water.  These  proportions 
are  practically  1  pint  to  the  gallon, 
so  that  those  requirng  a  small  quant- 
ity can  make  to  suit  their  needs.  Sheep  manure  is  strong  and  will  re- 
quire 1%  barrels  of  water  for  the  same  quantity.  Hen  and  pigeon  manures 
are  excellent,  but  being  very  strong  are  safest  when  used  in  weak  solution, 
and  should  not  exceed  1  pound  to  10  gallons. 

Tn  preparing  these  liquids  the  manure  is  generally  put  in  a  coarse 
burlap  bag,  allowing  it  to  soak  for  two  or  three  days.  A  box  or  barrel 
may  be  filled  and  water  applied,  leach  fashion,  but  the  liquid  thus  obtained 
is  very  strong  and  will  need  diluting.  An  old  rule  is  to  dilute  to  the 
color  of  weak  coffee,  but  this  is  hardly  safe  as  some  of  the  strong  manure 
give  light  colored  liquids. 

As  we  know  little  regarding  the  strength  of  solutions  made  from  ma- 
terial at  our  disposal,  the  subject  is  more  or  less  a  matter  of  guess.  Fine 
blooms  may  be  obtained  by  their  use,  and  by  closely  observing  growth  of 
the  plant  and  quality  of  flowers  it  will  soon  be  apparent  how  to  use  for 
hest  results. 

Where  the  soil  is  fairly  rich  with  manure  there  is  little  or  no  need  of 
feeding  until  after  they  have  been  disbudded.  If  resorted  to  at  all,  the 
applications  should  be  very  dilute  or  the  plants  will  become  too  gross  at 
this  period,  which  is  marked  by  the  thick  crisp  or  harsh  feeling  foliage. 

When  a  leaf  pressed  between  the  thumb  and  finger  cracks  and  will 
not  return  to  its  normal  position  it  is  evident  the  treatment  has  been  too 


FIG.    10.       BUND    GROWTH 


FROM    EXCESSIVE    NUTRIMENT. 


26  SMITH'S   CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL 

generous.  Such  conditions  frequently  cause  some  varieties  to  become 
blind,  that  is  the  joints  do  not  elongate  but  form  a  compact  mass  of 
foliage  at  the  top  of  the  stem  and  literally  refuse  to  produce  buds.  In 
either  case  it  is  best  to  discontinue  feeding,  so  that  nature  may  help 
to  rectify  this  error. 

Lime — Lime  and  iron  enter  into  the  construction  of  the  plant  to  a 
limited  degree,  but  both  of  these  are  generally  found  in  sufficient  quanti- 
ties in  most  soils  Lime  acts  as  a  decomposing  agent,  liberating  ammoni- 
um and  minerals  contained  in  the  compost,  and  has  a  decided  solidifying 
effect  upon  the  plant  tissues.  It  is  best  applied  by  dusting  air-slacked  lime- 
lightly  over  the  surface  of  the  bed  and  should  be  rubbed  in  with  the  hands 
or  slightly  raked  before  water  is  applied,  otherwise  it  becomes  hard  and 
is  of  little  value. 

Iron — Iron  may  be  applied  in  the  form  of  iron  filings  as  a  top-dressing 
or  incorporated  in  the  compost,  at  the  rate  of  a  pint  to  the  bushel,  or  by 
dissolving  a  half-ounce  of  sulphate  of  iron  (copperas)  in  five  gallons  of 
water  and  apply  this  solution.  It  may  be  added  in  small  quantities  to 
chemical  or  manurial  liquids. 

Burning  and  Damping — Experience  teaches  us  that  the  red  varieties 
and  more  sensitive  and  first  to  show  this  defect.  Some  of  the  pink  and 
white  and  occasionally  a  yellow  burn  or  damp  when  conditions  are  fav- 
orable. From  the  fact  that  flowers  produced  under  ordinary  cultivation 
are  seldom  thus  affected  it  is  quite  apparent  that  the  concentration  of 
food  to  the  petals  is  the  main  cause  and  this  is  augmented  by  excessive 
heat  and  moisture. 

To  avoid  such  conditions  put  on  full  air  early  in  the  day  and  if  pos- 
sible do  all  the  watering  at  this  time,  so  that  the  plants  and  atmosphere- 
may  become  thoroughly  dry  before  night. 

In  very  damp  weather  it  is  sometimes  necessary  to  turn  on  a  little- 
heat  to  keep  the  air  dry  and  buoyant,  even  if  the  temperature  does  not 
demand  it. 

The  accumulation  of  food  elements  in  the  petals  beyond  a  certain 
amount  are  transformed  by  chemical  action  of  heat  or  dampness  into  an 
acid,  which  dissolves  the  tissues.  Why  this  defect  is  so  apparent  in  some- 
varieties  and  not  in  others  we  are  unable  to  say,  unless  lacking  in  the 
quality  of  substance.  Get  varieties  thus  inclined  into  active  growth,  and 
discontinue  feeding  after  the  buds  become  half  developed.  They  may  lack 
a  trifle  in  size,  but  be  consoled  by  the  fact  that  your  flowers  are  not 
ruined.  Some  competent  growers  advocate  the  use  of  charcoal  dust  mixed 
in  the  soil  as  a  preventive. 

Top-Dressing  —  If  the  details  given  have  been  attended  to,  in  the 
Bourse  of  six  to  eight  weeks  the  stock  will  be  making  rapid  growth,  and 
the  roots  extending  to  all  parts  of  the  soil.  At  this  period  they  wiir 
require  some  additional  food  and  a  light  top-dressing  of  manure  from 
spent  hot-beds  in  a  half  rotted  state,  or  dry  pulverized  cow  or  sheep  ma- 
nure may  be  used  to  advantage. 

If  the  stock  has  been  planted  by  May  15th,  this  operation  will  take- 


COMMERCIAL  FLOWERS  27 

place  early  in  July,  and  30  days  later  the  second  top-dressing  may  be  ap- 
plied. If  the  planting  does  not  occur  until  the  first  week  of 
June,  we  would  advise  giving  the  first  top  dressing  second  or  third 
week  of  July,  and  second  the  third  week  of  August,  provided  the  plants 
are  in  a  healthy,  active  state  and  appear  to  need  further  encouragement. 

While  top-dressing  is  very  beneficial,  it  has  oiie  disadvantage,  and 
that  is  covering  the  soil  so  its  condition  cannot  be  readily  determined  by 
the  eye.  Some  use  three  inches  of  top-dressing  and  apply  it  all  at  once. 
Watering  under  such  conditions  and  do  justice  to  the  stock  is  difficult,  as 
it  must  be  done  by  guess  or  the  soil  under  the  dressing  be  carefully  exam- 
ined ;  it  may  be  dry  in  places  and  wet  in  others.  By  making  the  manure 
fine,  adding  and  thoroughly  mixing  an  equal  amount  of  loam,  will  furnish 
material  for  an  excellent  dressing.  This  can  be  easily  distributed  on  the 
benches  any  desired  thickness,  in  accordance  with  the  needs  of  the  variety 
being  treated,  or  in  consistency  with  the  strength  of  the  material  used. 

If  sheep  manure  is  used  one  inch  of  this  mixture  is  ample  for  the 
vigorous  kinds  and  less  for  the  weak  ones.  When  horse  or  cow  manure 
is  used  1%  inches  will  be  about  right.  This  should  be  firmed  down  to 
come  in  close  contact  with  the  soil.  In  this  way  the  dry  spots  will  be 
come  apparent  on  the  surface  of  the  beds,  which  is  the  only  object  of  this 
process. 

If  fine  manure  is  not  at  hand  and  that  of  a  coarse  nature  is  substi- 
tuted, it  should  be  placed  between  the  rows  leaving  some  space  next  to  the 
plants  uncovered  so  the  condition  of  the  soil  can  be  detected  at  a  glance. 

Removing  Stools — Plants  that  have  been  top-dressed  soon  throw  up 
stools  or  suckers  from  the  ground.  These  should  be  removed  as  soon  as 
they  appear,  care  being  taken  not  to  injure  the  roots  in  so  doing.  This 
operation  should  be  repeated  from  time  to  time  as  necessity  demands. 

Buds — In  this  branch  of  chrysanthemum  culture  there  is  little  neces- 
sity that  any  great  knowledge  be  acquired  regarding  the  two  forms  of 
buds,  crown  and  terminals. 

Those  interested  in  this  subject  see  buds  and  disbudding  next  chapter. 

It  matters  little  whether  the  bud  selected  is  crown  or  terminal.  The 
important  knowledge  to  acquire  is,  what  date  gives  the  best  flower. 

The  bulk  of  chrysanthemums  planted  for  commercial  use  do  not  set 
early  crowns,  owing  to  late  planting.  Some  make  second  crowns  late  in 
August,  and  those  planted  in  July  give  terminals  in  September  and  Octo- 
ber. 

It  is -for  this  reason  the  mastery  of  these  obscure  terms  are  unes- 
sential* 

•All  that  the  Commercial  grower  needs  to  know  regarding  this  subject 
may  be  summed  as  follows :  Buds  of  Early  varieties  planted  during  May 
and  June  should  be  selected  from  August  10th  to  25th. 

Midseason  kinds  Aug.  25th  to  Sept.  10th  and  the  late  sorts,  Sept.  20th 
to  Oct.  10,  according  to  when  the  buds  are 'apparent  arid  of  sufficient 
size  to  admit  of  disbudding. 

The  dates  given  are  resultant  of  many  years'  records  and  adequate. 


28  SMITH'S    CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL 

Buds  of  new  varieties,  or  those  which  have  not  been  tested,  should 
be  selected  at  intervals  of  five  days,  from  Aug.  20th  to  Sept.  10th,  at- 
taching a  tree  label  with  the  date  it  was  retained.  If  the  flower  is  single 
an  earlier  date  may  remedy  this  defect  and  if  too  double  or  poor  in  color 
a  later  date  may  be  beneficial. 

Such  a  course  is  the  only  way  to  become  familiar  with  this  prominent 
feature  and  a  record  of  the  results  should  be  filed  for  future  reference. 

At  flowering  time  it  is  easy  to  determine  the  best  dates,  and  in  mak- 
ing these  deductions,  let  purity  of  color  be  fully  considered.  The  various 
dates  at  which  the  buds  of  the  white  varieties  are  selected,  will  have  no 
material  effect  upon  the  color. 

Decided  variations  are  noticed  in  the  pinks  and  yellows  and  the  great- 
er the  different  in  date  of  selecting  the  bud,  the  more  contrast.  The 
least  permanent  color  is  pink  and  it  is  intensified  or  reduced  by  variance 
in  such  conditions  as  heat,  air,  sunlight  and  date  of  buds. 

Flowers  from  early  buds  are  the  lightest,  and  those  from  latest  buds, 
darkest  in  color,  provided  other  conditions  are  equal. 

Yellow  is  not  so  easily  affected  by  conditions,  although  some  varieties 
•described  as  yellow  will  become  bronzy  on  late  buds.  When  the  flowers 
are  developing,  an  abundance  of  air,  a  light  shading,  to  exclude  the  bright 
sun,  and  a  late  bud,  will  give  the  highest  color  and  best  substance. 

Each  grower  must  decide  the  best  date  for  selecting  buds,  as  the  con- 
ditions he  maintains  may  be  somewhat  at  variance  with  those  of  others. 

Late  buds  develop  more  rapidly  than  the  early  ones,  in  fact  there  is 
very  little  difference  in  the  maturity  of  those  selected  August  15th,  and 
September  5th,  provided  they  are  the  same  variety. 

Should  the  late  buds  intensify  the  color  too  much,  giving  the  pinks 
an  objectionable  purplish  hue,  and  the  yellow  come  bronzy,  it  would  be 
better  to  decide  upon  an  earlier  bud  for  future  crops,  providing  the  other 
qualities  are  equal. 

The  date  of  the  buds  also  has  effect  on  fullness  and  size  of  the 
flowers.  The  early  buds  give  the  largest  flowers,  and  are  more  double, 
but  the  petals  are  narrow  compared  with  those  from  later  buds. 

The  flower  buying  public  insist  that  the  stems  be  of  good  length  and 
well  clothed  with  foliage.  All  concede  those  produced  from  terminal  buds 
are  of  brighter  color  and  amply  provided  for  as  far  as  foliage  "is  con- 
cerned, also  much  easier  managed  than  the  crowns. 

Early — Since  publishing  the  second  edition  of  this  work  the  flowering 
season  has  advanced  two  months.  This  is  due  to  the  introduction  of 
Golden  Glow  and  Smith's  Advance,  both  of  which  may  be  had  in  bloom 
from  July  to  October,  according  to  when  they  are  planted  and  date  the 
buds  are  selected.  Formerly  all  varieties  flowering  by  October  15th  were 
considered  early,  but  at  present  such  should  be  termed  semi-early. 

Those  desiring  flowers  prior  to  October  should  arrange  to  bench  the 
plants  in  April  or  early  in  May,  which  would  necessitate  the  cuttings 
being  put  into  sand  in  March,  securing  buds  in  June,  July  or  early  August, 
according  to  when  they  appear.  Should  the  early  or  crown  bud  develop- 


COMMERCIAL  FLOWERS  29 

too  early  on  Smith's  Advance,  it  may  be  removed  and  the  next  one 
secured,  but  Golden  Glow  usually  produces  buds  as  soon  as  the  benches 
are  filled  with  roots,  and  the  lateral  growths  which  follow  the  early  bud 
terminate  in  a  cluster  of  terminal  buds  so  that  the  removal  of  the  early 
t»ud  will  not  greatly  retard  the  flowering  season.  With  this  variety  the 
date  of  planting  should  be  considered  before  hand  if  the  crop  is  desired 
at  a  certain  time.  From  past  experience  we  would  suggest  planting  in 
early  May  for  flowers  late  in  August  and  early  September,  and  early  in 
June  for  late  September  crop.  By  planting  every  two  weeks  from  May 
10th  to  June  25th,  succession  may  be  had  from  August  20  to  late  October. 

Such  semi-early  varieties  as  Monrovia  and  October  Frost  should  be 
planted  early  in  May  if  September  flowers  are  desired  and  buds  selected 
soon  after  July  15th.  Both  of  these  varieties  produce  rather  thin  flowers 
when  planted  late  or  where  the  later  buds  are  retained. 

The  slow  development  of  these  early  buds  gives  size  and  fullness 
that  cannot  be  otherwise  obtained.  We  can  not  too  strongly  impress  the 
Importance  of  early  planting,  all  kinds  that  are  needed  before  November 
1st,  and  it  should  be  the  endeavor  to  have  them  benched  early  in  June 
jtt  the  latest.  It  is  foolish  to  expect  early  flowers  from  late  planted 
stock,  even  though  the  varieties  are  naturally  early  flowering. 

Late — For  late  flowers  select  varieties  which  naturally  mature  late, 
and  keep  them  in  a  growing  state  as  long  as  possible.  To  secure  late 
buds  give  a  liberal  amount  of  water  and  at  the  approach  of  cold  nights 
lessen  the  supply  of  air ;  this  will  tend  to  keep  the  growth  soft.  The  mid- 
season  varieties  planted  late  in  July  or  early  August  are  usually  satis- 
factory. When  this  plan  is  adopted  do  not  use  very  rich  soil  and  with- 
hold liquid  fertilizers  until  disbudded,  otherwise  they  are  apt  to  come 
blind.  Buds  secured  from  October  1st  to  15th  will  perfect  flowers  between 
'thanksgiving  and  Christmas. 

Height  of  Plants — It  is  sometimes  advantageous  to  take  crown  buds 
rather  than  terminals,  owing  to  limited  space  between  bench  and  glass. 

To  know  the  height  a  variety  will  attain  at  maturity  is  important, 
particularly  when  head  room  is  limited.  If  records  have  not  been  kept 
it  is  wise  to  confer  with  those  who  give  these  matters  constant  study 
and  can  suggest  varieties  suitable  for  the  purpose. 

When  to  Cut — At  what  stage  of  development  the  flowers  should  be 
cut  is  perplexing  to  some.  The  petals  have  more  substance  when  fully 
matured,  and  for  this  reason  most  varieties  should  not  be  cut  before 
center  petals  are  developed.  This  gives  greater  depth,  adding  to  finish 
of  blooms,  as  well  as  increasing  the  keeping  qualities  and  are  thereby 
In  better  condition  to  stand  the  wear  and  tear  of  shipping  and  handling. 
It  is  allowable  to  cut  early  varieties  unmatured,  if  fancy  prices  result 
therefrom,  otherwise  it  is  best  to  let  them  stand.  Varieties  having  open 
centers  when  fully  developed  may1  also  be  cut  premature.  All  blooms 
should  be  stored  in  water  at  least  12  hours  before  sending  to  the  market. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

EXHIBITION    BLOOMS 

The  term  Exhibition  Blooms  refers  to  the  varieties  which  are  most 
serviceable  in  displaying  the  greatest  development  of  size,  and  as  size 
is  the  chief  characteristic  considered,  many  of  the  best  kinds  for  this 
purpose  are  of  little  consequence  to  the  commercial  grower.  There  are 
a  few  possessing  commercial  qualifications  which  are  of  sufficient  size  to 
be  of  some  importance  at  the  exhibitions,  especially  where  the  schedule 
calls  for  25  or  more  blooms  to  be  shown  on  long  stems  in  one  vase.  In 
such  competitions  rigid  stems  with  an  abundance  of  foliage  close  to  the 
blooms  often  so  enhance  the  exhibit  as  to  merit  the  award  over  those 
having  greater  size,  but  deficient  in  stem  and  foliage.  Such  varieties  as 
Betsy  Ross,  W.  H.  Chadwick  and  its  several  sports,  Timothy  Eaton  and1 
Yellow  Eaton,  etc.,  are  well  adapted  to  this  purpose. 

In  beginning  this  chapter  we  wish  to  impress  upon  the  reader  the 
fallacy  of  laying  down  hard,  fast  rules,  for  many  of  the  best  growers 
obtain  satisfactory  results  under  a  system  of  their  own  or  at  least 
attribute  their  success  to  certain  methods  not  usually  followed,  and  yet 
equally  good  results  are  reached  by  other  courses.  The  first  steps  neces- 
sary in  the  production  of  the  largest  and  finest  blooms  is  to  establish 
strong,  vigorous  plants  and  maintain  this  condition  throughout  their 
existence.  Lack  of  water,  food,  light  and  air  or  an  over  supply  of  water 
and  food  are  debilitating.  There  are  two  systems  which  may  be  employed 
— one  to  plant  upon  benches,  as  directed  in  preceding  chapter,  and  in 
pots  similar  to  the  method  followed  by  the  gardeners  of  England.  The 
only  difference  is  they  plunge  their  plants  out  of  doors  until  the  approach 
of  the  flowering  season,  while  we  grow  them  under  glass  entirely.  This 
system  is  looked  upon  with  favor  by  most  of  the  private  gardeners  in 
this  country. 

It  is  conceded  that  early  propagation  is  essential  if  we  excel  in  this 
undertaking,  as  a  long  period  of  growth  seems  to  impart  greater  vigor. 
Cuttings  should  be  started  in  February  or  early  March  at  the  latest.  When 
rooted,  pot  into  small  pots  and  keep  in  a  cool,  light  and  airy  house.  A 
low  temperature,  40  degrees  or  as  near  as  possible,  is  preferable  to  excit- 
ing growth,  with  greater  heat.  A  light,  friable  soil  (decomposed  sods  pre- 
ferred) containing  one-fifth  of  its  bulk  of  well-rotted  manure  and  half  this 
amount  of  half-decayed  leaves  that  have  been  rubbed  through  a  screen,  is 
requisite. 


EXHIBITION  BLOOMS  3 

Bench  System — Assuming  the  cuttings  have  been  rooted  and  potted 
into  small  pots  and  placed  in  a  cool  place,  watering  and  giving  all  the  air 
possible  is  all  the  attention  required  for  the  next  few  weeks.  As  the. 
roots  come  through  to  the  sides  of  the  pots  they  will  need  shifting  into 
the  next  size  larger.  If  they  are  first  in  two-inch  pots,  three-inch  will 
be  required  for  the  first  shift  and  2y3-inch  in  3^-inch  or  4-inch.  When 
propagated  in  February  it  may  be  necessary  to  shift  again  in  still  larger 
sized  pots  to  prevent  them  from  becoming  pot  bound  and  thus  check  their 
growth. 

Soil — Complete  directions  on  this  subject  given  in  the  preceding  chap- 
ter are  applicable  here  as  well  as  the  preparation  of  the  benches. 

Planting — Those  who  have  houses  of  sufficient  height  and  can  plant 
by  May  15th,  doubtless  have  best  results  inasmuch  as  the  plant  has  a 
longer  period  of  growth  and  becomes  thoroughly  established. 

As  to  depth  of  soil  it  may  be  from  four  to  six  inches,  the  former 
preferred,  as  there  is  less  liability  of  its  becoming  sour  by  overwatering 
before  the  plants  are  well  established.  When  the  benches  are  made  ready 
and  filled,  the  next  step  is  to  decide  how  far  apart  they  shall  be  planted. 
There  are  many  opinions  upon  this  subject,  and  without  question  the  best 
results  are  obtained  where  ample  room  is  given  for  full  development  by 
free  admission  of  air.  Ten  to  twelve  inches  apart  each  way  is  little 
enough;  much  depends  upon  the  size  of  the  foliage.  In  planting,  firm 
them  well,  leaving  a  slight  depression  around  each  plant  to  receive  the 
first  few  applications  of  water,  but  do  not  wet  entire  until  the  plants 
make  new  roots  and  are  strong  enough  to  utilize  all  the  soil. 

This  condition  is  apparent  at  the  pushing  forth  of  vigorous  growth 
which  indicates  a  corresponding  strong  root  action.  At  this  stage  the 
whole  soil  should  be  watered. 

Firming — After  the  plants  begin  making  rapid  growth,  go  over  the 
bench  with  a  brick  or  heavy  mallet  and  firm  the  soil,  so  that  the  original 
four  inches  will  not  exceed  three  when  firmed.  If  of  a  porous  nature  it 
can  scarcely  be  overdone,  but  if  stiff  clay,  caution  is  advisable  lest  the 
drainage  be  impaired.  By  planting  in  shallow  soil  and  firming  it  well, 
conditions  are  established  very  similar  to  those  of  the  pot  system,  which 
will  produce  short-jointed  plants. 

Tying — The  directions  given  Commercial  growers  wrill  here  suffice. 
Those  who  prefer  stake  instead  of  twine  can  stretch  a  wire  three  feet 
above  the  bench  over  each  row  and  tie  wire  or  bamboo  stakes  thereto, 
to  which  the  plants  are  tied  as  soon,  and  often,  as  their  growth  requires 
support. 

Buds  and  Disbudding — At  just  what  time  to  save  the  buds  is  ever 
n  very  perplexing  problem  to  the  expert,  inasmuch  as  climatic  conditions 
have  a  great  deal  to  do  with  the  results.  The  change  of  temperature 


32 


SMITH'S   CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL 


which  takes  place  in  the  autumn  months  has  a  tendency  to  ripen  or 
solidify  the  wood,  and  is  immediately  followed  by  bud  formation.  In  the 
northern  hemisphere  this  change 
generally  takes  place  from  the 
1st  of  August  to  the  1st  of  Sep- 
tember, according  to  location. 
Those  living  at  a  high  altitude 
or  adjacent  to  large  bodies  of 
water  are  first  to  feel  the 
change,  hence  are  favored  with 
early  buds.  In  the  southern 
hemisphere  this  change  takes 
this  reason  the  chrysanthemum 
flowers  in  Australia  during  the 
months  of  March  and  April. 

Having  set  forth  these  facts 
that  climatic  conditions  are  in- 
strumental in  bring  about  this 
desired  bud  state,  we  must  all 
consider  our  own  locality  and  be 
governed  accordingly.  Some  of 
the  experts  secure  buds  on  some 
varieties  as  early  as  the  first 
therefrom. 


FIG.  11 


CROWNS    AS    THEY    APPEAR    ON 
THE   PLANT. 

of  August,  and  get  magnificent  blooms; 
Doubtless  they  have  solved  the  problem,  as  far  as  they  are 
concerned,  but  there  are  others  not  so  favored.  We  doubt  if  those  located 
in  the  middle  states  where  the  heat  continues  through  the  month  of 
August  and  sometimes  into  September,  would  find  such  an  early  date 
practical,  unless  for  some  of  the  early  varieties  which  naturally  set  early 
buds. 

In  this  locality  (Southern  Michigan)  best  results  are  from  buds  taken 
August  25th,  or  soon  after,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  kinds,  which  are 

single  unless  earlier  buds  are  se- 
cured. Many  varieties  that  de- 
velop to  the  highest  degree  on 
the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  coasts 
from  early  August  buds  refuse 
to  expand  properly  under  more 
arid  conditions. 

As  soon  as  the  new  varieties 
are  brought  under  our  care  we 
make  a  record  of  the  date  of 
disbudding,  selecting  a  few  of 
the  earliest,  and  repeating  this 
operation  as  far  as  possible 
every  five  days,  up  to  the  mid- 
dle of  September.  When  the 
flowers  are  cut  we  make  a 


FIG    12.     CROWN    WHEN    RESERVED. 

record  of  best  dates,  and  the  next  year  we  are  in  a  fair  position  to  know 


EXHIBITION  BLOOMS 


just  what  course  to  follow.     These  records  are  made  on  tree  labels  and 
attached  to  the  plant 

Taking  the  Buds — Taking  the  buds  is  an  old  and  obscure  term  which 
simply  means  selecting  the  best  and  removing  all  others.  .There  are  two 
forms  of  buds :  Crown  and  Terminal.  The  Crown  is  formed  first  and  if  re- 
moved the  lateral  growths  which  surround  it  will  make  buds  later.  The 
Terminal  bud  is  the  termination  of  the  final  growth  and  must  be  retained 
as  there  are  no  buds  to  follow.  They  have  also  been  termed  as  follows: 
A  Crown  bud  is  surrounded  by  vegetative  shoots  and  not  by  other  buds.  A 
Terminal  bud  is  surrounded  by  other  buds  and  not  by  vegetative  shoots. 
hard,  thus  checking  the  growth  without  impairing  the  quality  of  the 
flowers. 

On  plants  that  have  been  planted  early  the  crown  buds  often  become 
apparent  early  in  August.  See  Fig.  12.  If  these  are  removed  the  adjacent 
vegetative  growths  push  forward  and  will  set  another  bud  which  is  gener- 
ally a  crown  and  often  termed  "second  crown,"  late  in  August  or  1st  of 
September ;  much  depending  upon  climatic  conditions  and  treatment  of  the 
plant.  If  this  bud  is  removed 
the  lateral  growths  will  push 
forward,  and  in  the  course  of 
a  few  weeks  develop  a  cluster 
of  buds  which  are  terminal  or 
final,  as  this  completes  the 
plant's  growth.  See  Fig.  13. 

The  chief  merits  of  the  crown 
buds  are  size  and  multiplication 
of  petals.  Many  of  the  foreign 
varieties,  particularly  those 
raised  in  England,  are  worthless 
from  late  buds,  producing 
flowers  with  open  centers,  and 
in  many  cases  so  much  so  that 
they  could  be  classified  as  single. 

The  tendency  of  crown  buds 
is  towards  loss  in  color  and 
foliage.  Varieties  that  producers.  13.  LATERAL  RETAINED  FOR  LATER  BUD. 
pink  or  red  flowers  from  terminal  buds  are  inclined  to  be  white  or  bronze 
from  crowns. 

Long,  bare  stems   are  due  to  selection  of  early  crown  buds.     This 
defect  can  be  reduced  to  some  extent  by  firming  the  soil  until  it  is  very 
hard,  thus  checking  the  growth  without  impairing  the  quality  of 
the  flowers. 

It  has  been  suggested  that  the  term  "single  bud"  be  applied  to  the  one 
known  as  crown  and  "cluster  bud"  to  the  one  known  as  terminal.  We  can 
see  no  objection  to  using  these  terms  and  thus  may  be  able  to  convey  our 
ideas  to  the  amateur  more  clearly. 


34 


SMITH'S   CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL 


Fig.  11  shows  the  crown  bud  as  they  appear  on  the  plant  with 
the  lateral  growths.  If  we  de- 
cide to  save  the  crown  bud,  re- 
move all  laterals  so  it  will  ap- 
pear like  Fig.  12,  and  if  a  later 
bud  is  preferred  remove  the 
crown  and  all  laterals  but  one, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  13.  The 
lateral  retained  will  give  a  bud 
later.  It  may  be  a  second  crown 
or  terminal,  depending  largely 
upon  the  date  of  this  operation. 
After  the  lateral  growths  are 
removed,  the  energy  of  the  plant 
will  be  directed  to  the  bud  which 
begins  to  expand.  Should  the 
buds  appear  a  fetw  days  too 
early,  remove  the  laterals  grad- 
ually, day  by  day,  completing 
the  operation  on  the  best  date. 
In  this  way  the  buds  may  be  hel( 
I  in  check  without  injury  ;  alt  ho 
gh  would  not  advise  retarding  tl 


FIG.    14.       TERMINALS    AS    THEY    APPEAR. 


iem  longer  than  eight  or  ten  days. 


FIG.    15.     TERMINAL    AFTER    BEING 
DISKUDDED. 


When  terminal  (Cluster  bud) 
is  desired  remove  the  crown, 
allowing  one  of  the  lateral 
growths  which  surround  it  to  re- 
main. In  the  course  of  a  few 
weeks  this  growth  will  have  at- 
tained some  length  and  show  a 
cluster  of  buds.  When  well  ad- 
vanced it  will  be  noticed  that 
there  is  one  at  the  apex  of  the 
stem  and  one  at  each  of  the  leaf 
axils,  as  shown  in  Fig.  14. 

If  the  center  or  apex  bud  ap- 
pears perfect,  retain  it  by  re- 
moving all  others  with  the 
thumb  and  finger.  This  opera- 
tion is  termed  "disbudding"  anil 
should  be  done  as  soon  as  buds 
are  of  sufficient  size  to  do  the 
work  without  injuring  the  one 
retained.  Should  the  center  onfe 
be  imperfect  or  injured  from 
any  cause,  save  the  next  best. 
See  Fig.  15. 


EXHIBITION  BLOOMS  35 

The  whole  subject  of  buds  resolves  itself  into  a  few  simple  facts 
Avhich.  each  grower  must  take  into  consideration  before  taking  any 
•decisive  steps,  viz. :  climatic  conditions,  date  of  the  exhibition,  classes 
in  which  they  are  to  compete,  and  peculiarities  of  the  varieties  under 
consideration. 

The  operation  of  disbudding  should  be  confined  to  the  early  hours  of 
the  day  as  far  as  possible,  at  which  time  the  growth  is  more  brittle  and 
•can  be  easily  removed  with  thumb  and  finger.  As  soon  as  the  buds  are 


FIG.    16.     SHOWING    THE   EFFECT    OF   EARLY    AND    LATE    BUDS    UPON    THE 
FORM   AND   COLOR. 

formed,  lateral  growth  from  the  leaf  axils  push  forward.  These  should 
be  removed  as  fast  as  they  appear,  or  the  bud  will  be  robbed  of  its 
nourishment  which  lias  been  previously  provided. 

Stopping — Most  of  the  exhibition  growers  of  England  have  given  con- 
siderable thought  to  what  they  term  "timing"  the  buds,  that  is,  having 
the  flowers  in  perfection  at  a  certain  date.  To  this  end  they  resort  to 
stopping  many  varieties.  The  object  is  to  force  flowers  at  an  earlier  date 
than  they  would  naturally  mature  if  allowed  to  make  a  natural  break. 
This  system  has  not  been  practiced  in  this  country  to  any  great  extent, 
although  it  may  be  worthy  of  consideration  as  competition  grows  keener. 

Record  of  Operations — In  a  work  where  there  are  so  many  conditions 
which  have  influence  upon  the  result,  it  is  very  important  that  each  opera- 
tor keep  a  fairly  complete  record  of  quantity  and  quality  of  fertilizers, 
and  when  applied,  height  of  plants  at  maturity,  date  of  bud,  and  general 
comments  as  to  merit.  Such  records  are  invaluable  for  future  reference. 

Such  details  as  watering,  spraying,  airing  and  shading  are  fully  de- 
lined  in  the  chapter  devoted  to  commercial  flowers. 

Feeding — This  operation  is  also  fully  treated  in  the  preceding  chap- 


36 


SMITH'S   CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL, 


ter.  It  is  impossible  to  give  explicit  directions  as  all  depends  upon  the 
condition  under  which  the  plants  are  grown  and  for  this  reason  it  is 
difficult  to  impart  this  knowledge  to  others  with  any  degree  of  accuracy. 

The  chrysanthemum,  unlike  most  plants  grown  under  glass,  has  its 
season  of  growth  and  its  season  of  flowering,  hence  our  object  is  to  pro- 
duce good,  healthy  growth  and  concentrate  all  energies  to  the  develop- 
ment of  the  flower.  Some  varieties  will  stand  much  more  food  than 
others  and  profit  thereby.  To  reach  the  acme  with  all  varieties,  the 
grower  must  be  familiar  with  the  special  requirements  of  each,  knowing 
when  to  stop  feeding  his  variety  and  increase  the  application  upon 
another. 

It  is  but  a  step  from  success  to  failure,  and  so  it  is  in  these  days 
of  close  competition,  the  expert  wins  out  in  one  class  and  his  opponent 
defeats  him  in  the  next;  each  having  brought  their  exhibits  to  the  high- 
est degree  of  perfection  in  one  case,  and  a  trifle  faulty  in  the  other. 


FIG.  17.     BUD  PROPERLY  EXPAND- 
ING. 


FIG.    18.     BUDS    DISTORTED   FROM    EXCES- 
SIVE  FOOD. 


Feeding  is  generally  continued  until  the  buds  begin  to  burst  and  show 
color,  and  some  growers  do  not  discontinue  until  the  flowers  are  half 
developed.  But  if  such  a  course  is  followed  we  would  advise  diluting  the 
application  to  one-half  the  strength  used  when  the  plants  are  in  an 
active  growing  state.  We  must .  remember  that  after  buds  are  formed, 
the  growth,  so  far  as  the  plant  is  concerned,  is  at  an  end,  and  whatever 


EXHIBITION  BLOOMS 


37 


we  apply  in  the  way  of  food  is  immediately  taken  to  the  parts  which 
are  now  being  constructed,  namely  the  petals. 

At  this  stage  of  development  the  foliage  on  healthy  plants  will  be 
dark  green  and  glossy,  which  is  due  to  the  high  living,  but  is  not  indi- 
cative of  excessive  feed;  unless  the  leaves  are  curling  badly  and  very 
important  detail  can  only  be  gained  by  the  closest  observation,  learning 
to  know  the  need  by  appearance  of  the  growth. 

It  is  no  great  credit  to  stage  a  winning  dozen  if  hundreds  have  been 
ruined  to  secure  this  "survival  of  the  fittest,"  it  is  high  average  that 
denotes  accomplishment  in  this  art. 

Pot  System — Growing  to  maturity  in  pots  has  some  advantages  espe- 
cially with  respect  to  feeding  as  the  roots  are  more  closely  confined,  each 


FIG.    19.     BUDS   BLASTED   BY   THE   USE   OF   TOO    STRONG 
FERTILIZERS. 

brittle.  Under  such  conditions  caution  is  advisable.  The  mastery  of  this 
variety  can  be  treated  as  to  its  specific  needs  and  again  the  small  quality 
of  earth  to  which  the  roots  are  restricted  permits  of  more  frequent 
application  of  liquid  fertilizers. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  in  small  pots  need  shifting  it  should  be  given 
immediate  attention  and  with  each  shift  a  soil  of  a  coarser  nature  should 
be  used.  Such  material  is  usually  available  when  plenty  of  sod  compost 
is  at  hand. 

The  shifting  continues  until  the  flowering  size  is  reached,  which  are 
generally  8"  in  diameter.  When  the  cuttings  are  struck  in  February  this 
final  potting  takes  place  early  in  June  and  liberal  drainage  should  be  pro- 
vided by  the  use  of  broken  pots  and  fibrous  parts  of  sod.  Tamping  it  very 
firm  with  a  blunt  stick.  As  soon  as  they  reach  the  flowering  size  they 
are  placed  about  12  inches  apart  each  way  on  the  benches  that  have 
previously  had  an  inch  covering  of  coal  ashes  or  sand  to  assist  in  retain- 
ing moisture.  After  providing  a  system  for  tying,  the  same  details  as 
given  in  the  bench  system  will  be  adequate  if  given  close  and  constant 
attention. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

BLOOMS  GROWN  OUT-OF-DOORS* 

It  is  not  to  be  presumed  that  success  can  be  achieved  in  exhibition 
tolooins  grown  out-of-doors,  where  very  cold  weather  creeps  into  the  lap  of 
Autumn,  or  severe  frosts  and  freezing  weather  may  be  expected  during 
the  month  of  November;  therefore,  it  should  hardly  be  attempted  in 
other  than  the  southern  states.  The  best  location  in  the  garden  for  this 
purpose  should  be  one  protected  as  much  as  possible  from  storms,  blowing 
rains  and  winds,  and  all  the  better  if  a  spot  30  to  40  feet  square  can  be 
selected,  and  a  6-foot  close-board  fence  built  all  around. 

It  is  a  mistake  to  set  out  plants  for  this  purpose  earlier  than  May, 
and  even  as  late  as  June,  although  many  growers  are  in  the  habit  of 
commencing  earlier.  The  results  they  have  at  blooming  time  are  great 
tall  plants,  inclined  to  be  spindling  and  not  of  that  sturdy,  stocky  nature 
^hicli  invariably  produces  the  better  blooms.  Besides  they  have  worked 
a  month  or  more  at  their  plants  that  is  wholly  unnecessary. 

Soil  should  be  of  a  stiff  rather  than  loamy  character,  liberally  fertil- 
ized with  manure  from  the  cow  lot,  which  will  make  it  sufficiently  rich 
and  porous  for  a  beginning.  Beds  should  be  parallel,  three  feet  wide, 
with  two-foot  walks  between  and  raised  six  inches,  that  drainage  may 
be  had  at  all  times.  It  is  well  to  box  in  the  beds  with  boards  six  inches 
wide,  and  use  a  few  inches  of  gravel  for  the  walks  between  the  beds. 
Two  rows  of  plants  12  inches  apart  in  the  rows  are  proper  distances  for 
setting  out  in  the  beds.  Get  them  straight  and  uniform,  and  have  a  few 
surplus  plants  in  case  any  should  die  or  fail  to  start  off  properly,  that 
the  rank  and  file  may  be  in  no  instance  broken. 

Do  not  use  too  many  varieties,  and  have  at  least  a  row  of  each  kind, 
selecting  those  in  preference  that  have  been  prize  takers  at  the  principal 
ftower  shows.  A  plant  will  make  three  exhibition  blooms  of  as  good 
quality  if  well  fertilized  as  it  wrill  one,  so  after  pinching  off  the  end  when 
the  plant  is  12  inches  high,  allow  but  three  well-selected  limbs  to  grow, 
and  no  more  during  the  entire  life  of  the  plant,  with  the  object  of  one 
bloom  to  the  limb,  or  three  to  each  plant.  The  best  means  of  staking  and 
tying  is  the  wire  fence  method.  Place  stout  stakes  as  tall  as  the  plants 
will  grow,  eight  or  ten  feet  apart  in  the  row,  stretch  wire,  fence-fashion, 
to  which  the  plants  are  tied  and  repeat  this  operation  as  often  as  re- 
quired. 

Never  allow  the  beds  to  become  dry,  but  water  and  spray  the  plants 
each  day  after  sundown,  and  during  August  sprinkle  with  bone-meal 


*S.  J.  Mitchell,  Houston,  Texas,  who  has  devoted  much  time  and  atten- 
tion to  the  chrysanthemum,  particularly  the  subject  of  exhibiting-  and  judg- 
ing, has  kindly  supplied  the  foreg^ing  article. 


EXHIBITION  BLOOMS  39' 

around  the  roots  of  the  plants  and  give  a  two-inch  top  dressing  of  well- 
rotted  manure  from  the  cow  lot.  The  idea  should  be  to  cause  the  roots 
to  grow  laterally  rather  than  downward,  hence  a  great  depth  in  the 
beds  is  unnecessary. 

Liquid  fertilizers  made  about  the  strength  of  weak  tea  from  hen, 
sheep  and  cow  manure  is  best,  and  will  contain  all  the  chemical  ingredi- 
ents that  the  plants  will  require.  This  liquid  fertilizing  should  com- 
mence about  September  1st,  and  10  days  later  the  first  setting  of  flower- 
ing buds  will  appear. 

When  buds  show  color  stop  all  fertilizing  and  give  soft  water.  A 
covering  of  canvas  laid  on  sloping  rafters  should  be  given  the  beds  to 
protect  the  opening  blooms  from  rain  or  dust,  in  fact  not  a  drop  of  water 
should  be  allowed  to  come  in  contact  with  a  bloom  at  any  time,  and; 
great  care  should  be  used  in  spraying. 

Disbudding  will  have  to  be  closely  attended  to,  allowing  but  one  (the 
most  promising)  to  each  limb,  and  usually  the  terminal  bud  is  chosen  for 
best  results.  The  crown  or  early  center  bud  is  best  for  some  varieties, 
but  experience  will  have  to  be  the  teacher.  Watch  for  insects  closely ; 
caterpillars,  aphis,  mealy  bugs  and  corythuca  that  huddle  on  the  under 
side  of  the  leaves.  Keep  on  the  lookout  for  these  enemies,  and  at  the- 
first  indication  apply  tobacco  tea  or  strong  soapsuds  to  prevent  their 
getting  a  strong  foothold. 

Do  not  expect  blooms  grown  out-of-doors  to  be  quite  as  nice  as  those 
with  greenhouse  protection,  where  these  elements  can  be  more  surely 
controlled.  The  grower  should  never  attempt  exhibition  blooms  of  any 
character  if  he  is  not  prepared  to  devote  time  each  day  to  them,  and 
under  no  circumstances  allow  the  slightest  procrastination  or  neglect. 
The  plants  in  time  will  repay  most  handsomely. 

Australian  Method — The  conditions  in  the  southern  states  are  similar 
to  those  of  Australia,  admitting  of  the  flowering  of  chrysanthemums 
out-of-doors.  Thinking  that  the  methods  employed  there  may  be  of  service 
to  southern  growers  we  give  the  following  suggestions  by  G.  Brunning 
&  Sons,  Australia :  It  should  be  taken  into  consideration  that  their 
spring  is  our  fall;  so  that  where  the  month  is  specified  we  should  add  six 
months.  This  would  make  September,  March,  or  the  proper  time  to  begin 
propogation.  And  again,  where  it  refers  to  the  buds  appearing  in  Febru- 
ary, we  should  substitute  August. 

"Stand  the  old  plants  of  the  previous  season  in  some  open,  airy  posi- 
tion to  break.  From  these  suitable  cuttings  of  about  three  inches  in 
length  are  taken  in  September  (March).  After  removal  of  some  of  the 
lower  leaves  the  cuttings  are  inserted  singly  in  two  or  three-inch  pots 
filled  with  light,  open  soil  and  plunged  in  sand  in  a  close  glass  frame. 
The  only  attention  required  until  they  are  rooted  being  an  occasional' 
watering  or  sprinkling  and  ventilation  for  an  hour  or  two  in  the  morning. 

"When  the  plants  are  fairly  established  and  hardened  off,  repot  into 
5-inch  pots,  using  a  good  open  soil  and  well-drained  pots.  The  soii  need 
not  be  too  rich  as  only  a  moderate  growth  is  desirable  at  the  present 


40 


SMITH'S   CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL, 


stage.  Pinch  out  the  leading  shoot  at  this  time,  thus  causing  the  side 
buds  to  break  and  furnish  the  necessary  leading  growth.  The  plants  are 
plunged  in  sand  in  an  open  sunny  position  and  progress  rapidly,  so  that 
by  the  second  week  in  November  (May)  they  are  ready  for  7-iuch  pots, 
when  a  little  richer  soil  than  previously  used  can  be  substituted,  in  which 
they  may  remain  until  the  first  week  in  January,  (July). 

"Now,  instead  of  removing  them  into  larger  pots,  break  a  good  sized 
hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot  in  which  they  now  are  and  plunge  to  the 
rim  in  a  well-drained  and  sheltered  bed,  placing  some  good  prepared  soil 


FIG.   20.     SHELTER   OF    SNUG    HARBOR. 


under  them,  (such  as  a  mixture  of  heavy  loam,  peat,  sand  and  manure), 
«ay  in  the  following  proportions:  *4  heavy  loam,  *4  peat,  %  sand  and 
14  horse  droppings ;  add  some  crushed  bones,  wood  ashes  and  a  little  soot. 
Should  heavy  loam  not  be  procurable  clay  may  be  used  as  a  substitute. 

"By  this  method  an  opportunity  is  afforded  them  with  liquid  manure 
much  easier  and  often  than  could  be  done  if  planted  out  in  the  open 
ground,  and  the  plants  will  not  attain  such  a  height,  provided  they  are 
firmly  potted  when  shifted  into  the  7-inch  pots. 

"The  only  liquid  manure  we  would  advocate  is  made  by  filling  a 
small  bag  with  about  28  Ibs.  of  fresh  cow  dung,  adding  a  little  soot  (about 
4-inch  pot  full)  placing  same  in  a  tub  containing  20  gallons  of  water, 
leaving  it  to  stand  three  or  four  days  before  using.  Dilute  %  pint  of  this 
mixture  to  2  gallons  of  water.  Renew  this  preparation  every  two  or  three 
weeks.  This  manure  may  be  given  from  the  second  week  in  January 
<July),  not  oftener  than  once  a  week  till  the  buds  are  taken,  as  over- 


EXHIBITION  BLOOMS  41 

manuring  has  a  tendency  toward  promoting  blind  buds  and  in  their  later 
stages  causing  blooms  to  damp." 

Shelter  or  Snug  Harbor — At  the  approach  of  cool  nights  protection 
will  be  necessary  where  the  flowers  are  to  be  perfected  out-of-doors.  The 
plan  generally  adopted  is  to  build  a  light  framework  upon  which  cloth 
is  stretched  and  fastened  to  form  a  roof.  For  the  sides  a  cloth  curtain 
should  be  provided  and  fastened  in  such  a  manner  that  it  may  be  rolled 
up  from  the  bottom  to  admit  air  on  pleasant  days.  If  the  plants  are 
situated  next  to  a  building  or  tight  board  fence  this  will  answer  for  one 
side  of  the  enclosure  to  which  the  framework  may  be  attached.  See 
fig.  20. 


< 


CHAPTER   X. 


INSECTS 

Aphis — The  black  and  green  aphis  infest  chrysanthemums  in  all 
stages  of  their  development  and  are  very  persistent  in  their  depredations. 
The  best  remedy  for  the  amateur  who  grow  their  plants  out-of-doors 
is  to  apply  one  of  the  several  forms  of  tobacco  extract,  such  as  Nico- 
Furne,  To-Bak-Ine,  etc.,  which  can  be  purchased  of  any  of  the  large  sup- 
ply houses  in  quantities  to  suit  the  need  with  directions  for  its  use.  This- 
is  diluted  and  applied  with  a  spray  pump.  Hammond's  Thrip  Juice  Xo. 
2,  recommended  for  Thrip,  will  keep  the  plants  very  clean  and  is  applied 
the  same  way. 

Tobacco  dust  is  often  useful  when  only  a  few  plants  are  effected,  and 
is  applied  dry  after  the  foliage  has  been  wet  so  it  will  adhere. 

Those  who  devote 
a  considerable  area 
to  chrystanthemums 
under  glass  will  find 
an  easier  way  to 
eradicate  aphis  is  by 
the  use/  of  tobacco 
stems  as  a  fumigant 
or  by  using  Hydor- 
cyanic  Acid  Gas. 

If  tobacco  stem* 
are  used  it  is  neces- 
sary to  dampen  them 
a  few  hours  ahead 
so  they  will  burn 
slowly  and  prevent 
blazing,  which  gen- 
erates heat  and  gas 
that  often  burns  tiio 
foliage.  Some  prefer 
tobacco  dust  or  a 
manufactured  article 
called  Tobacco  Punk, 
which  is  strips  op 
paper  saturated  with 
nicotine.  Both  of 
these  burn  slowly 
and  are  very  satis- 
factory. 

In  fumigating  with 

tobacco  there  is  less  danger  of  burning  the  tender  tips  if  the  foliage  is  wet 
and  with  Cyanide  it  should  be  dry,  so  avoid  spraying  late  in  the  day  it 
is  to  be  used. 

Chrysanthemum  Midge — The  chrysanthemum   midge,   or  gall   fly,   as 
known  among  entomologists,  is  Diarthronomya  hypogea    H.  Lw.       It  was 


FIG.    21.     CHRYSANTHEMUM    SHOWING    GALLS. 


INSECTS 


43 


reported  in  Europe  as  infesting  several  species  of  Chrysanthemums,  and 
it  appeared  in  tins  country  on  our  establishment.  In  August,  1914,  one 
of  the  einpolyees  called  the  writer's  attention  to  a  few  peculiar  blisters 
or  swellings  upon  leaves  of  the  new  variety,  Mistletoe,  which  had  been 
purchased  the  preceding  spring. 

Having  had  no  previous  experience  with  other  species  of  gall  fly, 
it  was  not  consideredd  of  great  importance. 

The  following  February  many  other  varieties  showed  this  infection 
and  in  some  cases  to  such  an  extent  as  to  render  the  young  growth  unfit 
for  propagating  purposes. 

We  now  began  to  realize  how  serious  the  conditions,  and  if  means  of 
control  were  unavailable  the  Chrysanthemum  industry  would  soon  be 
destroyed.  In  March  samples  of  infested  plants  were  sent  to  Michigan 
Agricultural  College  and  very  soon  Prof.  E.  II.  Pettit  arrived,  making 
thorough  examination,  pronouncing  it  a  species  of  gall  fly.  At  his  insti- 
gation samples  were  submitted  to  Dr.  E.  P.  Felt,  State  Entemologist  for 
the  University  of  NewT  York,  who,  by  the  end  of  March,  identified  it  as 
the  European  species  given  above. 

Since  then  the  several  Federal  and  State  institutions  interested  in  such 
subjects  have  devoted  considerable  time  to  further  investigations. 

Thus  ends  the  American  history  up  to  the  present,  but  unfortunately 
Ihe  midge  still  endures  and  probably  will  continue  to  be  a   menace  to  a 
greater     or     less     degree, 
depending  upon  how  thor- 
ough  and   vigilant   the 
growers    of    this    country 
are  in  the  applications  of 
the     various    r  e  m  e  d  i  e  s 
recommended. 

Doubtless  it  has  come 
upon  us  through  importa- 
tion of  stock.  In  the  adult 
stage  it  is  a  minute  fly 
1.75  milometers  (about 
one-twelfth  of  an  inch 
long),  and  in  this  stage 
deposits  its'  eggs  which  in 
a  few  days  begin  develop- 
ment showing  slight  swell- 
ings or  galls. 

By  opening  these  galls 
we  find  a  yellow  colored 
maggot,  which,  in  the 


NATURAL 


ADULT    FEMALE,    ENLARGED. 
SIZE  ABOUT   1/J2   INCH. 

course  of  time,  develops  to    Courtesy   of  Bureau   of   Entomology,    U.    S. 
the  fly  and  so  multiplica-  Department   of  Agriculture, 

tion  ?s  continued. 


44  SMITH'S   CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL, 

They  deposit  eggs  in  all  parts  of  the  plant  where  the  growth  is  young 
and  tender ;  upon  the  leaf  and  leaf  stems,  the  stem  of  the  plant,  the  buds 
and  even  on  the  subterranean  shoots  or  root  stalks,  provided,  of  course, 
these  are  exposed  to  the  ah-.  Their  molestations  are  confined  to  the 
Chrysanthemum  family,  including  the  section  which  Florists  are  most  in- 
terested in,  as  well  as  the  garden  kinds.  In  aggravated  cases  they  become 
very  numerous,  stems  and  foliage  are  literally  covered  with  these  little 
galls,  which  intercepts  the  natural  development.  They  become  stunted 
and  distorted  and  if  allowed  to  go  unchecked  they  will  produce  few  if  any 
cuttings  for  propagation. 

While  hand  picking  the  affected  leaves  and  stems  and  burning  the 
tefuse  will  be  helpful  in  cases  where  there  are  so  few  as  to  give  slight 
concern,  it  cannot  be  considered  a  complete  remedy.  The  surest  and  best 
method  is  to  fumigate  either  with  some  form  of  nicotine  (tobacco)  or 
Hydro-cyanic  acid  gas,  thus  destroying  the  fly  before  it  has  deposited 
eggs. 

Either  these  agencies,  used  the  same  as  recommended  for  Aphis,  on 
page  42,  will  be  effective 

From  the  most  eminent  entomologists  we  learn  the  life  cycle  of  this 
insect ;  as  near  as  can  be  determined  is  from  20  to  30  days, — that  is  from 
the  time  the  egg  is  laid  until  the  adult  is  developed  and  ready  to  repeat 
the  operation. 

Here  we  wish  to  impress  upon  the  reader  that  while  thirty  days  may 
cover  the  life  cycle,  this  period  is  not  of  sufficient  duration  to  give  assur- 
ance of  clean  stock  even  though  continuous  fumigations  have  been  main- 
tained. Our  experience  teaches  us  that  where  the  stock  plants  are  kept 
at  a  temperature  below  50  degrees  the  development  is  very  much  retarded, 
and  where  freezing  point  is  maintained  the  state  of  hibernation  may  be 
continued  for  several  weeks,  so  that  frequent  examinations  of  the  plants 
and  the  cuttings  taken  therefrom  should  be  continually  resorted  to. 

If  the  foregoing  is  true,  the  life  cycle  depends  upon  conditions  during 
the  stage  of  incubation  and  should  be  fully  considered  before  there  is  any 
abatement  in  the  process  of  elimination.  When  we  consider  that  the 
female  is  capable  of  laying  a  hundred  or  more  eggs,  it  is  evidence  of  the 
importance  to  keep  a  close  watch  the  year  around  for  the  slightest  mani- 
festations, and  all  employees  should  be  instructed  to  report  their  presence 
when  detected. 

Why  we  wish  to  emphasize  the  importance  of  not  discontinuing  fumi- 
gations to  soon,  we  beg  to  call  attention  to  the  fact  that  in  1918  we  were 
convinced  our  stock  was  entirely  free  from  this  pest,  but  upon  transferring 
the  old  plants  to  new  quarters  we  still  found  approximately  a  half  dozen 
which  showed  a  few  galls.  This  leads  us  to  believe  that  fumigations 
at  least  twice  a  week  should  be  continued  throughout  the  summer  months. 

At  the  return  of  longer  days,  more  sunlight  and  higher  temperature 
under  glass,  the  more  rapid  the  development,  both  in  the  transformation 
of  the  larvea  and  the  activities  of  the  females,  a  similar  period  exists  as 


INSECTS  45 

the  sun  retards  through  September  and  October.  During  these  eras  nightly 
fumigations,  or  at  least  every  other  night,  should  be  continued  to  keep 
them  under  control. 

It  has  been  determined  the  fly  emerges  from  the  gall  after  midnight 
and  doubtless  fumigations  between  that  time  and  morning  would  be  most 
effective.  We  have  been  able  to  keep  well  under  control  by  fumigation  at 
6  p.  m.  every  night,  using  Tobacco  paper  and  Cyanide  alternately.  In 
using  Tobacco  paper  occasionally  the  thrips,  which  are  a  serious  Chrysan- 
themum pest  when  they  get  a  foothold,  are  easily  subdued. 

Recent  investigations  have  demonstrated  that  spraying  the  plants  with 
nicotine  sulphate  40%  one  part  to  five  hundred  parts  of  water,  with  the 
addition  of  one  ounce  to  the  gallon  of  Fish-oil  Soap,  will  kill  the  emerg- 
ing adults  and  a  large  percentage  of  the  eggs,  but  the  operation  should  be 
repeated  four  or  five  days.  This  method  may  be  very  useful  where  a  small 
Lumber  of  plants  are  grown  and  possibly  be  less  expensive,  but  in  larger 
establishments  where  there  is  considerable  space  to  be  treated,  fumigation 
is  undoubtedly  the  most  practical  owing  to  the  saving  in  labor  and  the 
probability  that  infested  parts  might  not  be  reached  by  the  spray.  It  may 
also  be  very  useful  in  localities  where  Chrysanthemums  are  grown  out  of 
doors. 

To  the  Chrysanthemum  grower  the  serious  part  of  this  question  is  the 
improbability  of  ever  being  entirely  free  of  this  intruder.  No  one  is  im- 
mune as  long  as  new  stock  is  purchased  and  it  behooves  every  one  inter- 
ested in  this  class  of  plants  to  do  their  part  in  an  endeavor  to  keep  them 
under  control.  We  occasionally  buy  plants  that  are  apparently  clean,  but 
on  the  other  hand  a  greater  part  are  more  or  less  -affected. 

We  prefer  Cyanide  to  tobacco  fumigation,  being  more  powerful  and 
lasting  in  its  effect.  There  are  two  forms  of  Cyanide,  the  potassium  and 
the  sodium,  both  are  deadly  poison,  either  in  the  crystal  or  liquid  form, 
,'i.-;  well  as  the  gas  emitted  when  brought  in  contact  with  sulphuric  acid. . 
The  highest  grades  of  Cyanide  are  the  best  for  this  purpose  and  as  100 
parts  of  Sodium  Cyanide  are  as  efficient  as  129  parts  of  Potassium  Cyanide, 
we  prefer  the  former.  Since  the  publication  of  third  edition  Sodium  Cyan- 
ide has  been  placed  upon  the  market  in  form  of  an  egg — is  known  as  Cy- 
anegg — and  these  pieces  do  not  vary  far  from  1  oz.  each.  When  purchased 
ii:  this  form  it  eliminates  the  necessity  of  weighing  out  the  amount  for 
(•ach  jar. 

The  quantity  used  is  based  upon  the  cubic  contents  of  the  house,  which 
is  practically  1  oz.  to  each  G,000  cubic  feet.  A  house  30x100  feet  with  aver- 
age height  of  8  feet  will  contain  24,000  cubic  feet  of  space. 

For  such  a  house  we  use  four  small  stone  jars  and  prefer  such  as  hold 
only  8  to  10  ounces  (dishes  used  for  baking  beans,  known  as  individual 
bean  dishes,  are  very  serviceable)  rather  than  larger  ones,  as  they  are 
easier  handled  and  more  convenient. 

Use  a  stone  jar  of  sufficient  capacity  to  fill  the  necessary  number  of 
jars  and  figure  3  ounces  of  acid  solution  to  the  jar.  To  prepare  this  solu- 
tion put  §  parts  of  water  in  the  jar  and  add  2  parts  of  commercial  sulphuric 


46  SMITH'S   CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL, 

acid  then  stir  well  with  a  wooden  paddle — never  use  any  metallic  dishes  as 
the  acid  soon  destroys  them. 

An  ordinary  tea  cup  with  a  handle  is  very  serviceable  in  tilling  the 
small  jars — and,  as  previously  stated,  3  ounces  to  the  jar  is  sufficient  to 
ferment  and  decompose  the  Cyanegg. 

When  the  jars  have  received  sufficient  amount  of  acid  solution  place 
them  on  the  walks  at  as  nearly  equal  intervals  as  possible  so  that  the  gas 
will  reach  all  parts  of  the  house.  The  ventilators  and  other  outside  open- 
ings are  closed,  so  all  is  in  readiness.  Place  the  required  number  of 
Cyanegg  in  a  paste-board  or  wooden  box  (cigar  box  if  handy),  and,  be- 
ginning at  the  end  of  the  house  fartherest  from  the  door  or  exit,  drop  the 
Cyanegg  into  the  jar  passing  rapidly  to  the  next  and  so  continue  until 
all  are  accounted  for  and  out  of  the  house  locking  the  door. 

In  large  houses  or  ranges  where  there  is  a  considerable  space  to  be 
gassed  it  often  requires  the  services  of  two  or  even  more  to  drop  the 
Cyanegg.  The  course  to  be  traversed  must  be  considered  before  hand  so 
that  each  person  can  reach  free  air  and  safety  at  about  the  same  time  and 
thus  avoid  the  gas  fumes. 

Those  who  have  not  used  the  deadly  poison  should  be  very  careful  both 
in  handling  it  and  after  it  has  come  in  contact  with  the  acid.  The  gas  is 
jis  transparent  and  colorless  as  the  air,  but  when  inhaled  it  is  death  to  all 
animal  life.  Never  undertake  to  investigate  its  action  or  re-eater  the 
house  for  three  hours  after  its  installation.  Also  see  that  the  houses  are 
locked  to  protect  persons  who  are  unaware  of  the  danger. 

Red  Spiders — The  most  difficult  insect  we  have  to  contend  with  under 
glass  is  the  red  spider,  which  is  very  minute,  scarcely  discernable  by  the 
naked  eye,  but  if  allowed  to  go  unchecked  will  become  very  numerous,  form- 
ing a  fine  web  about  the  leaves  and  buds.  It  is  generally  first  detected 
on  the  underside  of  the  leaves  where  they  are  not  dislodged  by  spraying. 
Dry,  hot  air  is  most  congenial  to  their  welfare  and  after  these  conditions 
have  been  brought  about  by  turning  on  heat,  houses  have  been  ruined 
which  were  apparently  clean  and  gave  great  promise  early  in  the  season. 

The  best  remedy  known  is  water,  which  should  be  applied  in  the  form 
of  a  spray  with  as  much  force  as  possible  to  destroy  the  web  and  dislodge- 
them.  It  is  important  that  it  be  applied  to  the  under  as  well  as  the  upper 
side  of  the  foliage.  Thorough  and  repeated  applications  are  the  only 
source  of  relief. 

Tlirips — These,  like  the  foregoing,  are  very  small,  the  adults  being 
scarcely  a  1-10  of  an  inch  in  length,  of  a  grayish  white  and  very  slender 
or  hair  like,  in  fact  they  look  very  much  like  clippings  of  white  or  gray 
hair.  Their  presence  is  first  indicated  by  slightly  brown  discoloration 
between  the  midribs  on  the  under  side  of  leaves  and  when  allowed  to  go 
unchecked  the  whole  undersurface  will  have  a  decided  brown  cast,  event- 
ually extending  to  all  parts  of  the  plant  including  the  buds  and  blooms. 
Spraying  with  considerable  force  will  dislodge  them  to  some  extent. 

The  best  remedy  we  know  of  is  Tobacco  fumigation  where  the  plants 
are  grown  under  glass  or  wherever  the  fumes  cnn  be  confined  and  is  used 


INSECTS  47 

the  same  as  for  Aphis,  but  often  requires  several  fumigations  to  expedite 
and  accomplish  the  purpose. 

When  plants  grown  out-of-doors  become  infested  it  will  necessitate 
using  either  some  form  of  Tobacco  extract  applied  with  a  spray  pump  1 
to  2  teaspoonsful  to  a  gallon  of  water  or  Hammond's  Thrip  Juice  No.  2, 
at  the  rate  of  1  part  to  40  parts  of  water  used  in  the  same  manner. 

Leaf  Tyer.  (Phlycaenia  ferrugalis).  From  Fig.  21  it  will  be  seen 
there  are  three  stages  or  forms  of  life  during  its  existence.  The  first  is 
the  larvae  or  worm,  which  is  light  green  and  feeds  usually  upon  the  under- 
side of  the  leaves,  leaving  the  epidermis  or  skin  like  upper  surface.  Its 
habit  of  drawing  two  large  leaves  together  or  rolling  the  edge  under  by 
means  of  a  fine  silky  web  is  whence  it  derives  its  common  name  leaf  tyer. 
'As  the  worm  attains  full  size,  about  %  inch  long,  it  seeks  a  secluded 
place  where  it  changes  to  the  second  stage  or  chrysolis  form  and  is  about 
%-mch  long  with  a  brown  covering.  ITT  a  few  days  this  chrysolis  breaks 


FIG.   23.     LEAF  TYER,   SHOWING  THE  LARVAE. 
CHRYSOLIS   AND   MOTH   STAGES. 


its  covering  and  in  this  transformation  is  provided  with  wings,  then  being 
1:1  the  third  or  mature  moth  state.  With  these  wings  it  is  enabled  to  go 
to  other  plants  or  houses  and  deposit  eggs  which  soon  become  larvae. 
Such  remedies  as  paris  green,  arsenate  of  lead  are  effective  if  it  were, 
possible  to  apply  to  the  underside  of  the  leaves,  but  we  fife  such  applica- 
tions are  not  sufficiently  vigorous  in  their  action  to  keep  them^rn  check. 
Tobacco  and  cyanide  fumes  have  no  effect. 

When  stock  plants  are  badly,  infested  we  find  it  advantageous  to  re- 
move every  green  or  growing  shoot*  and  leaf  before  replanting  then  for 
propagating  purposes.  ^« 

Should  such  a  course  fail  to  eliminate  the  trouble,  dip  the  young 
plants  before  planting  into  a  strong  solution  of  arsenate  of  lead  (the  dry 
form  is  best),  say  1  oz.  to  a  gallon  of  water,  and  thus  poison  the  larvae. 

Another  method  is  to  plant  sufficient  stock  for  propagation  out  of  doors 
find  allow  it  to  remain  until  after  heavy  frosts  (October  15th)  before  lift- 
ing and  housing  thus  assuring  clean  stock  plants  provided  all  infested 
plants  are  destroyed. 

Mealy  Bug — As  commonly  known  it  is  a  white,  mealy,  downy  looking 
insect.  Generally  it  does  not  infest  chrysanthemums  to  any  extent,  but 
we  have  seen  cases  where  they  were  more  or  less  troublesome.  If  not  very 
numerous  they  may  be  hand-picked.  When  this  is  impractical,  alcohol 


48 


SMITH'S    CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL 


diluted  one-half  and  applied  with  a  brush  or  atomizer  will  destroy  them 
without  injuring  the  foliage. 

Grasshoppers  are  sometimes  troublesome, 
devouring  the  tender  leaves  and  stems,  and 
the  best  remedy  is  hand-picking,  which  should 
be  done  as  early  in  the  morning  as  convenient, 
when  they  are  more  docile  and  easily  caught. 
Should  they  be  very  abundant,  an  applica- 
tion of  Paris  Green  may  be  given.  Care 
should  be  taken  not  to  apply  too  freely  or  it 
will  burn  the  foliage. 

A  safe  rule  is  1  part  Paris  Green  to  150 
parts  air  slacked  lime  which  should  be  thor- 
oughly mixed. 

Tarnished  Plant  Bug  (Lygus  Pratensis)   is 


FIG.    24.        TARNISHED 
PLANT    BUG. 


a  great  hindrance  and  often  causes  total  failure  to  plants  grown  in  the 
open  border.  See  Fig.  24.  They  are  brought  into  the  greenhouse  on  var- 
ious plants,  like  carnations  and  geraniums,  and  immediately  find  a  fav- 
orable feeding  ground  upon  the  chrysanthemum.  This  destructive  bug 
procures  its  food  by  thrusting  its  proboscis  into  the  tender  growths,  ex- 


FIG.    25.      DEPREDATIONS    OF   THE   TARNISHED   PLANT    BUG. 
BRANCH   SHOWING   MASS  OF  BLIND  GROWTH. 


tracting  the  sap,  thus  causing  the  tips  to  flag,  which  may  be  considered  evi- 
dence of  their  presence.  In  the  young  state  they  are  of  a  yellowish  green 
color  and  seem  to  confine  their  depredations  to  the  apex  of  the  stem  ancl 
soon  destroy  the  center. 


INSECTS  49 

As  soon  as  the  lateral  growths  push  forward  they  take  to  these,  and 
thus  the  operation  is  repeated  until  the  plant  often  becomes  a  mass  of 
stunted  growth.  See  Fig.  25. 

The  adults  are  yellowish  brown,  about  3-1G  of  an  inch  in  length,  and 
will  continue  their  destructive  work  upon  any  part  of  the  plant  or  flower 
that  is  soft  and  abundant  with  sap.  They  puncture  witlj  such  violence  as 
to  distort  the  growth  and  ruin  promising  buds,  and  later  on  deface  the 
petals  of  expanding  flowers.  The  pest  is  known  in  nearly  all  parts  of  the 
United  States,  being  more  or  less  destructive  to  many  other  plants,  such 
as  asters,  goldenrod  and  sunflowers,  and  they  are  very  partial  to  carnation 
blooms. 

Hand-picking  is  the  best  remedy  we  have  found,  and  whoever  attempts 
to  catch  any  of  these  little  intruders  must  be  alert  indeed.  The  adults 
will  fly  at  the  first  intimation  of  your  presence  and  the  young  either  hide 
under  the  leaves  or  drop  to  the  lower  part  of  the  plant. 

CorytJiiica  Gosspyi  is  about  the  size  of  a  full  grown  aphis;  color,  a 
dirty  gray,  having  a  woolly  appearance.  It  is  more  or  less  troublesome 
throughout  southern  states,  but  is  little  known  in  the  north,  although  it 
has  been  reported  in  many  localities.  Its  habit  is  similar  to  the  red1 
spider  feeding  upon  the  under  side  of  the  foliage.  It  is  reported  as  being 
very  destructive,  and  the  affected  leaves  curl  and  die.  When  disturbed 
they  fly  to  the  ground  and  immediately  return  to  the  plants  by  climbing 
up  the  stems  and  are  soon  re-established.  The  best  remedy  is  weak  kero- 
sene emulsion,  and  this  should  be  applied  to  the  under  side  of  the  leaves 
to  be  most  effective. 

Grub  Worm — The  common  white  grub  so  prevalent  in  meadows  is 
often  carted  into  the  house  with  the  soil.  The  first  indication  of  their 
presence  is,  the  plant  will  begin  to  wilt  and  eventually  die.  They  harbor 
in  the  soil  and  feed  upon  the  roots  and  should  be  hunted  out  and  killed, 

Cut  Worm — This  dark-colored  worm,  which  sometimes  attains  two 
inches  in  length,  burrows  in  the  ground  and  at  night  feeds  upon  the  foli- 
age of  the  plants,  generally  going  to  the  tender  leaves  at  the  top.  Owing 
to  their  nocturnal  habits  they  are  easier  caught  at  night. 

Lady  Bwcl  (Coccinella.) — This  little  beetle  varies  in  size  and  color, 
being  from  %  to  %  of  an  inch  in  length  in  the  adult  form  and  nearly 
round.  Commonly  red  with  black  spots,  varying  in  size  and  number. 

In  the  larvae  state  they  are  %  inch  long,  color,  bluish-gray,  more  or 
less  marked  with  yellow  and  black  spots.  At  a  certain  stage  of  develop- 
ment they  fasten  themselves  to  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  and  in  a  day 
or  so  shed  their  larvae  coat  and  are  thus  transformed  to  the  winged 
or  mature  state.  In  all  stages  they  feed  upon  the  aphis  but  are  more  active 
and  greedy  when  young.  They  are  also  known  in  this  country  as  lady 
bug  and  should  never  be  molested,  as  their  persistent  hostility  to  the  aphis 
is  very  beneficial. 

Lace-Winged  Fly  or  Golclcneye  (Crysopa  Oculata.) — This  fly  which  in 
the  mature  state,  is  a  peculiar  shade  of  light  green,  approaching  opalescent 
tints,  entirely  except  its  golden  eyes.  It  is  about  one  inch  in  length  and  its 


oO  SMITH'S    CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL 

large  wings  are  reticulated  with  a  network  of  ribs  to  strengthen  the  thin 
-and  transparent  tissues.  This  lace-like  reticulation  is  the  source  of  its 
common  name  "lace  wing."  The  larvae  is  one-half  inch  long  and  nearly  or 
quite  black  in  color. 

In  the  larvae  state  it  will  be  seen  traversing  the  young  shoots  and 
leaves  where  the  aphis  are  usually  most  abundant.  When  within  reach 
It  seizes  its  prey  with  two  horny,  jaw-like  appendages  to  hold  it  secure  and 
then  thrusts  its  proboscis,  or  bill,  into  the  aphis  body  extracting  the  juice 


I 

m 


FIG.   26.      LACE-WINGED   FLY.       SHOWING  LARVAE  AND    MATURE   STAGES. 

the  same  as  the  mosquito  operates,  when  the  lifeless  shell  is  released  and 
the  larva?  proceeds  to  its  next  victim. 

Chrysanthemum  Fly — This  insect  closely  resembles  our  honey-bee,  al- 
though a  trifle  larger.  When  on  the  wing  it  makes  a  similar  humming 
sound  but  can  be  handled  with  impunity,  as  it  cannot  sting.  It  makes  its 
appearance  with  the  first  chrysanthemum  flowers  arid  disappears  at  the 
close  of  the  flowering  season. 

It  cannot  be  considered  a  foe  or  friend,  its  sole  object  being  to  gather 
bee-bread  from  the  more  single  flowers.  It  has  been  used  for  the  purpose 
of  raising  seed,  being  an  excellent  agent  in  fertilizing  flowers,  as  it  contin- 
ually roams  from  one  flower  to  another.  Seed  thus  obtained  cannot  be  con- 
sidered very  valuable,  inasmuch  as  they  never  visit  flowers  that  are  fully 
double  and  the  results  thus  obtained  would  be  degenerative  rather  than 
progressive. 


VHAPTEK   XI. 

DISEASES 

Rust  is  not  so  prevalent  in  this  country  as  in  England  from  the  fact 
our  atmosphere  is  dryer.  It  makes  itself  apparent  with  the  approach  of 
cool  nights  and  is  generally  augmented  by  excessive  moisture. 

H.  J.  Jones,  Levvisham,  England,  describes  this  fungus  in  the  follow- 
ing comprehensive  manner.  "It  appears  the  fungus  originates  in  the  tis- 
sue of  the  leaf,  and  is  mostly  confined  to  the  under  side,  although  there  are 
many  instances  in  which  pustules  appear  on  the  upper  surface  of  the  leaf. 
A  pustule,  simply  described,  is  a  little  pimple  which  bursts,  exposing  a 
dark  brown  dust,  at  maturity.  This  brown  dust  is  none  other  than  liber- 
ated spores  which  drop  out  of  the  pustule,  and  fall  on,  or  come  into  con- 
tact with  the  chrysanthemum  foliage,  and  when  this  is  in  a  moist  con- 
dition it  quickly  grows  and  very  speedidly  develops  a  germ  tube  which  very 
soon  finds  its  way  into  the  tissue  of  the  leaf,  and  after  a  time  repeats  itself. 

"There  are  many  remedies  given,  such  as  bordeaux  mixture,  and  am- 
monical  solution,  as  well  as  other  prepared  compounds.  These,  doubtless, 
are  more  or  less  effective,  but  we  can  hardly  expect  a  permanent  cure  from 
their  use  unless  we  maintain  conditions  that  are  unfavorable  to  the  devel- 
opment of  new  spores." 

A  few  years  ago  the  carnation  rust  which  grows  and  reproduces  it- 
self in  the  same  manner,  and  as  far  as  we  know  is  identical,  caused  great 
anxiety  among  carnationists,  who  feared  its  prevalence  would  gain  such  a 
.foothold  as  to  be  ruinous.  Experience  has  taught  them  to  remove  the 
cause  or  conditions  under  which  it  develops  rapidly.  To  this  end  they 
house  the  plants  early,  spray  only  on  bright  mornings  and  maintain  a  dry 
and  buoyant  atmosphere  as  far  as  possible. 

If  chrysanthemum  growers  will  take  the  same  precautions  there  is 
little  fear  of  the  disease  becoming  wide-spread,  or  doing  great  damage. 
Over-crowding  the  plants  so  that  the  foliage  does  dry  oft'  quickly,  indis- 
criminate spraying,  particularly  when  applied  late  in  the  day  in  the  au- 
tumn months,  and  lack  of  air  should  be  strongly  guarded  against. 

In  aggravated  cases  it  would  be  well  to  try  the  following  remedy, 
given  by  W.  Wells,  Redhill,  England,  in  his  new  work  just  issued,  "The 
Culture  of  the  Chrysanthemum/' 

"Spray  every  cutting  or  plant  once  a  fortnight — from  the  day  the 
cuttings  are  inserted  or  the  old  plants  are  cut  down  with  about  a  wineglass 
full  of  paraffine  (kerosene)  mixed  with  one  gallon  of  water,  using  an  Abol 
syringe  with  the  spray  nozzle.  If  the  solution  can  be  kept  thoroughly 
mixed,  double  the  strength  may  be  employed.  Then  from  July  1st  spray 
the  under  part  of  the  foliage  with  a  dressing  composed  of  the  following 
ingredients:  half-pound  each  of  sulphur,  soft  soap,  soot,  and  lime.  The 
•lot  should  be  boiled  for  half  an  hour  in  one  gallon  of  water:  a  half  pint 


52  SMITH'S    CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL, 

of  paraffine  should  then  be  added  and  the  mixture  allowed  to  simmer  for  a 
minute,  or  so,  care  being  taken  to  prevent  it  from  •boiling  over.  The  dres- 
sing should  be  allowed  to  stand  until  it  gets  clear,  and  may  be  kept  in 
bottles.  A  quarter  of  a  pint  of  the  dressing  may  be  used  to  a  gallon  of 
water.  If,  however,  the  fungus  is  very  bad  and  has  obtained  a  hold  011  the 
plant,  double  strength  can  be  used  without  injuring  the  chrysanthemum." 

Leaf  Spot — With  this  fungus  (Septoria  Chrysanthemi  E  and  D)  the 
spore  bearing  cavities  are  imbedded  in  the  leaf  tissue,  and  as  they  mature 
the  spores  ooze  out  of  these  cavities  and  thus  spread  the  disease.  They 
may  be  killed  by  applying  Bordeaux  mixture  or  some  similar  fungicide. 
Another  fungus  disase  which  often  attacks  the  chrysanthemum  is  known 
as  Clyndrosporium  Chrysanthemi.  It  is  a  more  rapid  grower  than  the 
Septoria  and  the  plants  affected  by  it  are  often  so  stricken  down  as  to 
be  unable  to  make  any  blooms. 

The  leaves  of  the  affected  plants  begin  to  roll  up,  the  outer  edges  turn- 
ing under  and  this  condition  becomes  so  apparent  that  even  the  inexper- 
ienced grower  will  know  at  a  glance  that  something  is  wrong.  Some 
varieties  seem  to  be  strong  enough  to  withstand  this  fungus,  hence  in 
nearly  every  case  where  the  writer  has  known  its  presence  it  has  confined 
itself  to  certain  varieties  and  very  often  those  growing  adjacent  were  not 
affected  in  the  least. 

The  best  remedies  are  Bordeaux  and  ammonium  mixtures. 

The  foregoing  is  an  abridged  article  on  leaf  spot  by  Prof. .  Byron  D. 
Halstead  appearing  in  American  Chrysanthemum  Annual. 

Bordeaux  Mixture. 

Copper   sulphate    6  pounds 

Quicklime 4  pounds 

Water    40   gallons 

Dissolve  the  copper  sulphate  by  putting  it  in  a  bag  of  coarse  cloth 
and  hanging  this  in  a  vessel  holding  at  least  four  gallons,  so  that  it  is 
just  covered  by  the  water.  Use  an  earthen  or  wooden  vessel.  Slake  the 
lime  in  an  equal  amount  of  water.  Then  mix  the  two  and  add  enough 
water  to  make  40  gallons.  It  is  then  ready  for  immediate  use. 

Ammoniacal  Copper  Carbonate. 
Copper  carbonate 1  oz. 

Ammonia enough  to  dissolve  the  copper 

Water   9  gallons 

The  copper  carbonate  is  best  dissolved  in  large  bottles  where  it  will 
keep  indefinitely,  and  it  should  be  diluted  with  water  as  required. 

Mildeiv — A  common  name  applied  to  several  forms  of  microscopic 
fungi.  The  one  affecting  the  chrysanthemum  is  white  and  forms  a  coat 
over  the  leaves  and  tender  shoots  and  is  caused  by  a  sudden  check  of  some 
nature. 

Sulphur  in  some  form  is  the  accepted  remedy,  being  applied  as  dust 
directly  to  the  leaves,  or  by  mixing  equal  parts  of  sulphur  and  air  slacked: 


DISEASES  53 

lime,  adding  water  until  the  consistency  of  paste  and  painting  the  steam 
pipes.  The  formula  given  by  W.  Wells  for  rust  is  recommended  for  mil- 
dew and  doubtless  is  effective. 

Potassium  Sulphide  is  also  highly  recommended  for  mildew  and  rust, 
applied  to  the  affected  parts  at  the  rate  of  one  GZ.  to  two  gallons  of  water. 

Many  of  the  private  gardeners  consider  a  preparation  known  as  grape 
dust  an  excellent  preventative  for  mildew  and  other  fungus  diseases 
which  is  applied  with  a  bellows  or  some  other  air  blowing  device. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

SEEDLINGS    AND   SPORTS 

Before  entering  the  details  of  this  subject  let  us  consider  some  of  the 
natural  conditions  which  have  more  or  less  influence  upon  our  results. 
Dame  nature  says  the  chrysanthemum  shall  be  single  and  reproduce  itself 
from  seed,  so  in  producing  these  marvelous  flowers  with  almost  countless 
petals  we  are  working  in  direct  opposition  to  her  laws. 

In  some  of  our  improved  varieties  we  are  prevented  from  making  fur- 
ther improvements  owing  to  the  pistils  or  styles  being  abortive;  and  in 
others  the  staminate  florets  provide  little  or  no  pollen. 

In  cross-fertilization  the  operator's  desire  is  to  improve  the  chief  char- 
acteristics, such  as  color,  size,  form  and  fullness.  It  is  beyond  all  human 
power  to  obtain  exact  results  in  uniting  or  mixing  the  colors  of  petals. 
1*011011  of  a  white  flower  applied  to  a  red  may  give  red,  white,  or  any  inter- 
mediate shades  which  would  be  many  varieties  of  pink.  The  union  of  red 
and  yellow  gives  similar  results,  producing  red,  yellow  and  all  the  inter- 
mediate shades  of  brown  and  tan.  We  have  more  assurance  when  varie- 
ties of  the  same  colors  are  crossed.  Improvements  in  colors  can  only  be 
attained  by  bearing  in  mind  the  laws  of  nature  in  making  these  unions. 

The  chrysanthemum  has  a  great  tendency  to  revert  to  its  antecedents. 
Hence  it  is  we  get  many  strangers  when  two  of  the  same  color  are  crossed. 
The  variety,  Mrs.  J.  J.  Glessner,  yellow,  came  from  Edward  Hatch  and 
Mrs.  J.  Jones,  both  white  or  nearly  so.  This  seedling  partook  of  the 
parentage  of  Ed.  Hatch  which  was  Gloriosum,  yellow,  and  Ada  Spaulding, 
pink. 

Form,  size  and  fullness  are  improved  only  by  careful  consideration 
of  these  qualifications  in  varieties  at  our  disposal.  We  are  more  certain 
of  advancement  in  the  style  of  growth,  securing  those  which  are  dwarf 
and  sturdy  by  confining  our  operations  to  such  as  possess  these  qualities. 

Large  and  small  foliage  can  be  produced  by  using  those  having  these 
peculiarities. 

What  governs  the  potency  of  the  pistillate  and  staminate  parent  we 
cannot  determine.  We  are  dealing  with  minute  affairs.  The  stigma  may 
scarcely  have  reached  maturity  when  the  pollen  is  applied,  or  the  pollen 
may  be  past  its  prime  with  the  stigma  at  the  height  of  development,  These 
varied  conditions  may  have  their  influence  upon  establishing  the  char- 
acter of  the  seedling. 

In  selecting  varieties  for  this  work  the  two  classes  for  consideration 
are  those  for  exhibition  and  commercial  use.  In  the  former,  size  is  the 
most  important  factor  if  the  other  qualifications  are  up  to  the  average. 
The  commercial  grower  requires  staple  colors,  and  the  purer  the  color  the 
better.  Size,  form,  fullness  and  style  of  growth  are  important  and  should 
be  taken  into  consideration. 

Seed  Plants — Our  experience  leads  us  to  believe  that  single  stem 
plants  in  4-inch  pots  grown  naturally  without  an  abundance  of  nourish- 
ment are  best  suited  for  this  purpose.  They  produce  less  ray  florets,  hence 


SEEDLINGS  AND   SPORTS 


55- 


pollen  is  easier  to  gather.  The  styles  in  flowers  thus  treated  seem  to  be 
in  better  condition,  or  at  least  more  normal  and  produce  seed  more  freely. 
We  have  arrived  at  these  deductions  by  endeavoring  to  procure  seed  from 
those  grown  for  exhibitions  and  in  nearly  every  case  our  efforts  have  been 
fruitless. 

Plants  intended  for  seed  raising  should  be  staged  in  a  dry,  light  house* 
and  excessive  moisture  at  the  roots  or  in  atmosphere  should  be  avoided. 

Fertilizing — The  operation  begins  when  the  flowers  are  half  open  by 
cutting  the  petals  off  close  to  the  base 
with  a  pair  of  scissors,  until  the  styles 
are  exposed.    See  Fig  27. 

Fig.  28  represents  an  enlarged  ray 
and  disc  floret.  No.  1  is  a  petal  which 
furnishes  the  color.  This  is  provided 
with  a  style  or  pistil  and  when  in 
condition  or  fully  expanded  is  in  proper 
condition  to  receive  the  pollen  which 
is  applied  to  the  upper  surface,  (B) 
known  as  the  stigma.  The  disc  floret 
(II.)  also  has  a  style,  but  is  provided 
with  stamens,  (C)  which  furnish  the 
pollen.  These  should  be  removed  from 
th-e  seed  plant  with  the  points  of  scis- 
sors to  prevent  self-fertilization. 

After  the  flower  head  has  been  trim- 
med select  the  desired  flower  for  pol- 
len. Push  aside  the  ray  florets  or 
petals  until  the  disc  florets  are  in 
view.  Collect  the  dust-like  pollen  on 
a  camel's  hair  pencil  or  toothpick  and 
apply  to  the  stigmas  of  the  flowers 
previously  prepared.  This  completes 
the  operation. 

How  fertilization  takes  place  is  fully 
described  by  Prof.  Bentley  in  his  Man- 
ual of  Botany : 

''When  the  pollen  falls  upon  the  stig  FIG.  27. 
ma  its  intine  protrudes  through  one 
or  more  pores  of  the  extine  in  the  form  of  a  delicate  tube  which  pene- 
trates through  the  cells  of  the  stigma,  by  the  viscid  secretions  from  which 
it  is  nourished.  These  pollen  tubes  continue  to  elongate  by  growth  and 
pass  down  the  conducting  tissue  of  the  canal  of  the  style,  and  thus  reach' 
the  ovary  where  the  seed  is  formed." 

If  a  toothpick  is  used  never  use  it  for  more  than  one  kind  of  pollen. 
By  .allowing  the  camel's  hair  pencil  to  stand  in  an  open  month  vial  of  al- 
cohol a  few  minutes  after  using,  it  may  when  dry  be  used  upon  another 
variety  without  fear  of  the  former  operation  affecting  {he  present. 


%  FLOWER     TRIMMED     READY 
FOR   FERTILIZATION. 


56 


SMITH'S    CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL, 


Pollenizing  should  be  done  on  bright,  sunny  days  as  far  as  possible. 
In  wet  weather  a  dry,  warm  house  can  be  utilized  and  the.  work  continued 
<each  day,  provided  sufficient  pollen  is  at  hand.  On  bright  days  pollen  is 


(A)   Style— (B)   Stigma—  (C)    Stamens— (D)  Ovary— (E)   Seed 

FIG.    28.      I.    PISTILLATE   FLORET.       II.    STAMINATE    FLORET. 

generally  very  abundant,  and  may  be  collected,  stored  in  vials  and  labeled 
ready  for  use.  If  kept  perfectly  dry  this  pollen  will  retain  its  vitality 
throughout  the  chrysanthemum  season. 

After  fertilization  give  the  plants  only  sufficient  water  to  keep  them 
from  wilting.  Always  keep  a  record  of  the  work,  showing  the  parents  of 
the  seedlings.  It  will  afford  pleasure  to  know  how  a  meritorious  variety 
was  produced,  and  may  suggest  possibilities  along  other  lines. 

Seeds  ripen  in  five  or  six  weeks.  Those  fertilized  early  in  the  season 
give  the  greatest  number  of  seeds,  doubtless  due  to  more  favorable  weather 
at  t^iat  time.  Do  not  anticipate  super-abundance  of  seed.  The  crosses 
which  give  but  few  seeds  generally  produce  the  best  seedlings.  Hand  pol- 
lenized  seeds  are  of  more  value  than  those  naturally  fertilized.  It  at  least 
seems  rational  to  expect  more  from  seed  secured  by  the  union  of  our  best 
kinds  than  from  that  produced  by  the  wind  without  intent,  or  the  bee 
whose  only  object  is  to  secure  his  daily  sustenance.  If  this  be  true,  our 
results  depend  upon  the  degree  of  intelligence  employed  in  the  selection  of 
parents,  and  thoroughness  with  which  every  detail  is  attended. 

Seedlings — The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  light  soil  as  soon  as  they  are 
ripe,  using  pots,  pans  or  shallow  boxes.  They  should  be  covered  lightly 
.•pnd  kept  in  a  temperature  of  about  60  degrees,  until  they  have  germinated. 
Tf  kept  in  too  high  a  temperature  the  seedlings  are  quite  apt  to  damp  off, 
and  at  the  first  indication  of  such  a  condition  move  to  a  more  airy  place. 
As  soon  as  they  have  made  their  second  pair  of  characteristic  leaves,  prick 
off  into  shallow  boxes,  planting  about  an  inch  apart.  When  showing  signs 
-of  crowding  they  should  be  potted  separately  and  repotted  as  often  as 
necessary  or  planted  into  the  bench,  same  as  standard  varieties. 


SEEDLINGS  AND  SPORTS         .  57 

They  flower  the  first  year  from  seed  and  there  is  nothing  more  inter- 
esting than  to  look  over  a  large  lot  of  seedlings  and  note  the  diversity  of 
color  and  form.  After  the  planted  seedlings  are  established  we  nip  out  the 
top  and  allow  two  breaks  to  come  up  and  flower,  and  as  far  as  possible 
select  a  crown  or  early  bud  on  one  of  these,  and  terminal  or  late  bud  upon 
the  other;  thus  we  gain  some  knowledge  the  first  year  as  to  which  bud 
produces  the  best  flower.  Those  that  are  considered  desirable  may  be  saved 
and  given  further  trial. 

imports — The  wrord  "sport"  in  connection  with  chrysanthemums  refers 
to  varieties  which  originate  by  bud  variations  and  are  termed  "sports." 
Occasionally  a  variety  will  sport  the  first  or  second  year  after  its  origin 
from  seed,  but  generally  it  does  not  take  place  until  several  years  have 
elapsed,  and  then  often  simultaneously  in  remote  localities.  This  has  oc- 
curred in  this  country,  the  most  marked  case  being  that  of  Mrs.  J.  Jones, 
.sporting  to  yellow.  As  a  rule  most  of  the  whites  sport  to  yellow,  and  pinks 
tc  white,  although  Yiviand  Morel  gave  us  a  sport  variety,  Chas.  Davis, 
which  is  bronze,  and  has  also  sported  to  white  in  the  variety  Mrs.  Kitson. 
Louis  Boehmer,  magneta  pink,  sported  to  white  and  named  L'Enfant  des 
deaux  Mondes.  This  variety  sported  under  French  cultivation  to  yellow 
and  is  known  as  Leocadie  Gentils.  Louis  Boehmer,  the  original  variety, 
has  given  us  several  other  sport  varieties,  such  as  Win.  Falconer,  light 
pink ;  Mrs.  C.  B.  Freeman,  bronzy  yellow,  and  Beauty  of  Truro,  bronzy 
•cerise.  It  is  worthy  to  note  that  many  varieties  have  changed  their  color 
in  this  way  many  times,  while  others  that  are  now  very  old  have  never 
shown  any  inclination  to  sport.  The  yellow  varieties  seem  less  inclined 
to  sport  than  other  colors,  possibly  this  is  due  to  the  fact  that  yellow 
is  the  original  color  of  chrysanthemums. 

Philadelphia,  a  light  yellow,  gave  a  sport  several  shades  darker,  and  is 
known  as  Pennsylvania.  It  need  not  surprise  anyone  cultivating  chrysan- 
themums to  notice  a  plant  having  flowers  of  two  distinct  colors.  Sometimes 
the  sport  flowers  will  be  one-half  the  original  color,  and  again  possibly  on 
the  same  plant  another  bloom  will  be  the  new  color  entire. 

It  has  been  reported  that  flowers  sometimes  sport  in  form,  that  is,  give 
a  flower  of  entirely  different  form  from  that  originally  possessed,  such 
as  an  incurved  flower  sporting  to  a  reflexed  form.  Such  cases  are  at  least 
few  and  far  between,  in  fact  we  are  inclined  to  disbelieve  that  such  changes 
have  really  taken  place.  Cultural  conditions  often  change  the  form  of 
flowers  materially,  also  buds  selected,  and  doubtless  some  of  the  cases  re- 
ported were  simply  due  to  these  causes. 

To  perpetuate  the  new  color  of  the  plant  that  has  sported  the  method 
generally  followed  is  to  cut  the  leaf  on  the  flowering  wood  with  a  heel 
or  portion  of  stem  and  place  these  under  a  bell  glass  or  closed  case  to 
induce  them  to  make  root  after  which  they  send  forth  new  growth.  These 
are  planted  the  next  season  and  if  any  possess  the  original  color  they  are 
discarded  and  those  of  the  new  color  saved.  Generally  in  the  course  of 
two  or  three  seasons  it  is  safe  to  consider  the  new  variety  established  and 
color  fixed,  as  it  is  termed. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

PREPARING   EXHIBITS 

Some  time  previous  to  the  flowering  season  suitable  boxes  should  be 
made  ready.  Also  material  necessary  for  packing  and  staging,  such  as 
cleats,  excelsior,  paper  for  wrapping  and  lining  cases,  labels  for  plants 
ard  cut  blooms,  and  exhibitors'  cards.  This  will  save  anxiety  at  the  last 
when  so  many  details  require  constant  attention. 

Plants — All  pots  should  be  washed  clean  before  packing  and  each 
lila lit  securely  staked  and  tied,  thoroughly  watered,  and  plainly  labeled. 
Where  specimens  and  standards  are  to  be  exhibited,  the  intervening  spaces 
between  the  blooms  should  be  filled  with  crumpled  tissue  paper  to  prevent 
shifting  and  rubbing  against  each  other.  With  a  strong  cord  draw  the 
plant  together  as  close  as  possible  without  injury. 

If  they  are  to  be  transported  a  short  distance  and  the  weather  is  fav- 
orable they  may  be  taken  as  they  are.  For  long  shipments  that  will  be 


FIG.   29.       WRAPPING   A   BLOOM. 

six  or  more  hours  in  transit,  provide  each  plant  with  a  frame  work,  around 
which  paper  can  be  wrapped  to  keep  the  blooms  clean.  Should  there  be 
danger  of  freezing,  cotton  wadding  or  several  thicknesses  of  paper  will  be 
necessary. 

Single  stemmed  plants  are  usually  shipped  in  boxes  the  height  of  the 
pots,  with  a  post  in  each  corner  (extending  a  little  above  the  plant)  to 
which  strips  are  nailed  horizontally  to  form  a  rigid  framework.  The 
spaces  between  the  pots  are  tucked  with  excelsior  and  the  flowers  wrapped 
with  paper  or  other  tissue.  The  frame  is  then  covered  with  paper  or  other 
material  as  necessity  demands. 


PREPARING  EXHIBITS 


Cut  Flowers — Blooms  that  are  likely  to  be  too  far  advanced  for  the 
exhibition  should  be  cut  and  stored  in  water  in  a  cool  cellar  with  some 
light  (in  total  darkness  the  foliage  soon  turns  yellow),  cutting  off  a 
small  portion  of  the  stem  and  giving  fresh  water  every  three  days.  In 
this  way  they  may  be  kept  two  or  three  weeks  in  a  very  presentable  con- 
dition. 

All  blooms  should  be  cut  and  stored  in  water  at  least  12  hours  before 
packing  and  longer  if  possible.  This  allows  them  to  take  up  suffcient  water 
to  harden  the  foliage  and  petals.  In  brighter  weather  it  is  best  to  do  the 
cutting  early  in  the  day  while  they  are  firm. 

The  most  suitable  sized  box  for  packing  depends  upon  the  size  of  the 
blooms,  number  to  be  packed,  and  required  length  of  stems  when  staged. 
They  must  be  of  sufficient  depth  so  that  the  cover  when  nailed  does  not 
crush  the  blooms.  When  large  exhibits  are  to  be  handled,  boxes  6  feet 
long,  2  feet  wide,  and  10  to  12  inches  deep  or  there-abouts  are  the  most 
serviceable. 

The  box  is  first  lined  with  paper  to  exclude  air,  and  if  cold,  enough 
to  protect  from  frost.  The  next  step  is  to  consult  the  schedule,  sorting 
out  each  entry  so  they  may  be  packed  by  themselves.  If  no  one  accom- 
panies them  to  attend  the  staging,  each  class  should  be  divided  with  a 
e.Leet  of  paper  and  plainly  marked,  giving  class  number  so  that  the  person 
in  charge  will  know  each  entry  at  a 
glance. 

Each  bloom  should  be  labeled  with  a 
white  card  plainly  written.  A  very  suit- 
able size  for  this  purpose  is  1  %  by  4 
inches,  which  should  be  tied  to  the  stem 
near  the  bloom.  A  few*  extra  blooms 
should  be  added  in  case  some  are  injur- 
ed in  transit  and  the  packer  will  have  to 
use  Iris  judgment  as  to  how  many  are 
required,  by  their  present  condtion  and 
apparent  substance.  Where  the  entries 
require  a  large  number  of  blooms  it  is 
advisable  to  label  them,  even  though  they 
are  to  be  accompanied  with  someone 
who  is  conversant  with  unpacking  and 
staging,  as  it  saves  much  time  and  con- 
fusion at  the  last  moment  when  it  Is 
urgent  that  all  exhibits  be  in  position 
at  the  allotted  hour. 

Make  rolls  of  excelsior  wrapped  with 
paper  2%  or  3  inches  in  diameter,  and  as  long  as  the  box  is  wide.  Sheets 
of  tissue  paper  large  enough  to  cover  the  blooms  should  be  cut  on  one 
side  to  the  center,  and  having  the  blooms  near  at  hand,  all  is  ready.  It 
requires  two  persons  to  pack  to  advantage,  one  placing  the  blooms  in  the 
box  and  attending  to  cleating,  and  a  helper  tying  on  the  labels  and  liolcl- 


FIG.    30.       BLOOM     WRAPPED. 


60 


SMITH'S    CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL 


ing  the  blooms  while  being  wrapped.  Beginning  at  one  end  of  the  box 
place  a  roll  of  excelsior  0  or  8  inches  from  the  end.  The  helper  takes  a 
bloom  and  holding  it  head  down  the  packer  slides  the  cut  tissue  paper 
around  the  stem,  draws  the  edges  downward  giving  the  corners  a  few 
turns  with  the  thumb  and  finger  to  keep  in  position.  See  Figs.  27  and  28. 

It  is  difficult  to  say  how  tight  the  blooms  should  be  wrapped,  much  de- 
pends upon  their  form  and  condition.  Those  of  the  reflexed  type,  like 
Viviand  Morel  and  Yanariva,  may  be  rolled  moderately  close  without 
injury,  while  such  varieties  as  Mrs.  H.  Robinson  and  Col.  D.  Appleton, 
should  be  given  a  little  more  freedom.  After  a  little  experience  the 
packer  will  determine  at  a  glance  how  tight. 

It  is  then  placed  in  the  box  allowing  the  neck  of  the  flower  to  rest 
on  the  roll  of  excelsior,  the  object  being  to  prevent  outer  petals  being 


FIG.    31.       BLOOMS    PROPERLY    PACKED. 


bruised.  It  is  wise  to  select  the  largest  blooms  and  those  having  the 
longest  stems  for  the  end  of  the  box.  This  operation  is  repeated  until 
the  first  row  across  the  box  is  completed  and  the  packing  is  continued  in 
the  same  manner  until  the  third  row  is  finished.  See  Fig.  29. 

One  or  more  wet  newspapers  should  be  laid  over  the.  foliage.  Over 
these  a  wooden  cleat  is  placed,  pressing  the  stems  down  firm  and  nailing 
securely  from  the  outside  of  the  box  into  the  end  of  the  cleat,  so  they 
can  not  shift.  The  cleats  should  be  placed  far  enough  from  the  blooms 
so  the  next  tier  will  not  rest  upon  them  and  thus  be  injured.  The  pack- 
ing is  continued  until  the  blooms  cover  about  one-third  of  the  box,  then 
begin  at  the  other  end.  and  proceed  in  the  same  manner. 

In  warm  weather  it  is  advisable  to  well  moisten  the  foliage,  the  aim 
being  to  keep  the  foliage  wet  and  the  blooms  dry.  Some  prefer  not  to 


PREPARING  EXHIBITS  61 

wrap  the  blooms,  but  instead  place  on  a  sheet  of  tissue,  bringing  the  ends 
up  so  as  to  act  as  a  partition  between  the  adjoining  blooms,  also  the 
sides.  This  system  of  packing  is  along  the  same  lines  as  that  usually 
employed  by  the  wholesale  dealers  in  packing  Roses  and  Carnations. 

Foreign  Shipments — Flowers  grown  in  this  country  have  been  ex- 
hibited in  England  and  vice  versa.  The  directions  given  for  packing  are 
{Tactical  in  such  cases,  but  would  suggest  the  stems  being  cut  not  to  ex- 
ceed 12  inches  in  length,  and  use  Kift's  Rubber  Capped  Flower  Tube  for 
each  specimen.  These  tubes  are  glass  vials  with  a  tight  fitting  rubber 
cap  which  confines  the  water  to  the  tube  and  thus  the  supply  is  sufficient 
to  keep  them  fresh. 

Another  method  is  sometimes  employed  in  which  the  flowers  are 
packed  so  they  stand  upright,  a  very  good  system  where  the  exhibit  is  not 
very  large,  or  the  distance  to  be  shipped  very  long.  The  size  commonly 
used  is  3  by  4  feet  and  2  ft.  G  inches  in  depth,  but  should  the  schedules 
require  longer  stems  a  deeper  box  will  be  necessary.  These  boxes  are  pro- 
vided with  cleats,  one  a  few  inches  from  the  bottom  and  the  other  placed 
so  as  to  come  directly  under  the  bloom.  In  packing  put  two  cleats  in 
position  at  one  end  of  the  box  and  after  the  blooms  have  been  wrapped 
set  them  in  position  and  tie  securely,  top  and  bottom. 

As  soon  as  one  row  is  completed  another  set  of  cleats  are  adjusted 
and  the  work  continued.  The  ends  of  the  stems  may  be  wrapped  with 
sphagnum  moss  or  inserted  in  rubber  capped  tubes  filled  with  water  to 
keep  the  foliage  from  wilting.  Packed  in  this  manner  the  foliage  dries 
out  more  than  when  laid  flat  in  the  box  owing  to  the  large  amount  of  air 
space,  hence  the  necessity  of  providing  moisture  at  the  end  of  the  stem  to 
prevent  flagging.  These  boxes  are  generally  constructed  with  a  hinge 
cover,  also  one  side  or  end  hinged  from  the  middle  so  that  the  upper  por- 
tion may  be  let  down,  making  it  more  convenient  in  packing  and  unpack- 
ing. 

Dressing  Floicers — This  is  resorted  to  somewhat  by  foreign  exhibi- 
tors, but  little  practiced  in  this  country.  In  fact  most  schedules  prohibit 
dressing.  The  Incurved  section  requires  more  attention  than  the  Japanese 
when  this  operation  is  resorted  to.  The  method  is  simply  to  remove 
short  or  deformed  petals  and  arrange  perfect  ones  to  occupy  their  places, 
also  to  separate  those  which  have  grown  one  into  the  other  to  form  a 
regular  rounded  flower  when  finished.  Sometimes  semi-incurved  Japanese 
are  dressed  to  give  them  a  reflexed  appearance.  As  far  as  known  about 
the  only  dressing  done  in  this  country  is  the  removal  of  deformed  petals, 
which  are  likely  to  occur  in  any  of  the  types.  Very  often  strap-petals  will 
nppear  in  the  cushion  of  the  Anemone  varieties  and  thus  detract  from 
their  appearance,  and  should  be  removed  with  a  pair  of  tweezers. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

STAGING 

Staging  Plants — In  arranging  plants  for  exhibition  much  depends 
upon  the  schedule,  which  should  be  thoroughly  digested  to  conform  with 
the  rules  and  regulations.  Then  consider  space  allotted,  and  if  next  the 
wall  to  be  viewed  from  one  side  only,  the  tallest  plants  should  be  put  in 
the  background  and  others  graduated  to  the  shortest  in  front. 

If  the  exhibit  contains  more  than  one  color  this  should  be  considered 
and  arranged  for  best  effect.  Groups  for  the  center  of  the  hall  are  ar- 
ranged on  the  same  plan,  but  such  exhibits  are  viewed  from  all  sides  and 
will  require  greater  effort  to  bring  out  uniformity. 

In  France  the  space  allotted  to  plants  is  covered  with  light  soil,  into 
which  the  pots  are  plunged  and  the  earth  covered  with  green  sod.  In  this 
way  they  have  the  appearance  of  being  permanently  planted,  which  adds 
greatly  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  exhibit. 

Staging  Blooms — Collections  of  cut  blooms  are  generally  shown  one 
in  a  vase,  arranged  on  tables  usually  at  the  side  of  the  hall,  so  there  is 
but  one  congregational  side.  Such  tables  will  accommodate  three  rows 
in  width  and  after  the  vases  or  glasses  are  so  placed  the  blooms  are  ar- 
ranged so  the  middle  row  will  be  slightly  elevated  above  the  first  and  the 
back  row  above  the  second.  The  object  is  to  have  each  bloom  show  dis- 
tinctly both  its  size  and  form.  The  largest  ones  should  be  placed  in  the 
back  row  and  the  smallest  in  front.  When  placed  in  this  manner  they 
appear  to  be  nearly  all  of  a  size.  The  light  and  dark  colors  should  be  al- 
ternated as  much  as  possible  for  the  best  effect. 

If  there  are  restrictions  as  to  length  of  stems  this  must  be  considered 
at  the  beginning,  but  if  left  to  the  discretion  of  the  exhibitor  ten  or  twelve 
inches  for  the  first  row  will  be  about  right,  and  three  to  six  inches  longer 
for  each  of  the  successive  rows,  according  to  the  depth  of  the  bloom. 

The  foregoing  rule  is  practical  where  the  tables  are  of  regulation 
height,  about  2  ft.  7  in.,  but  if  only  a  foot  or  so  from  the  floor  it  will  hard- 
ly be  necessary  to  make  any  distinction  as  to  length  of  stem,  inasmuch  as 
the  exhibit  will  be  viewed  from  above.  When  the  tables  are  built  terrace- 
fashion  the  stems  may  be  nearly  or  quite  the  same  length. 

Boards — The  board  system  so  popular  in  England  for  staging  col- 
lections is  seldom  used  or  little  known  to  American  exhibitors.  It  con- 
sists of  a  board  18x24  inches  nailed  to  end  pieces  so  that  the  front  will  be 
three  and  the  back  six  inches  above  the  table  and  are  painted  green.  Holes 
are  bored  to  accommodate  twelve  blooms,  three  rows  front  to  back.  The 
petals  of  each  bloom  are  supported  by  a  funnel-shaped  cup  terminating 
with  a  tube  into  which  the  stem  is  inserted  and  when  properly  adjusted 
a  wedge  is  crowded  between  tube  and  stem  to  hold  securely.  The  stem 


STAGING  63 

and  cup  tube  are  passed  through  the  hole  in  the  board  into  a  tube  contain- 
ing water. 

At  the  Kansas  City  show  of  1902,  mossed  banks  were  substituted  for 
the  typical  boards.  These  were  constructed  by  nailing  G-mch  boards  run- 
ning lengthways  of  tables  to  scantling.  The  boards  wrere  placed  far 
enough  apart  to  admit  the  neck  of  a  bottle  and  the  back  elevated  to  give 
a  slope  of  about  3  inches  to  the  foot.  Bottles  were  placed  so  the  top  of 
the  necks  were  even  with  the  boards,  at  the  proper  distance  apart  to  re- 
ceive the  blooms  and  the  whole  framework  was  then  covered  with  green 
moss.  This  system  is  very  practical  where  large  collections  are  to  be 
staged  and  has  been  adopted  by  many  of  the  managements  of  the  leading 
flower  shows.  This  system  enables  us  to  display  a  greater  number  of 
varieties,  including  those  with  weak  stems,  which  cannot  be  staged  in 
vases  to  advantage. 

Vases — Classes  calling  for  more  than  one  bloom  of  a  kind  are  gen- 
erally staged  together  and  may  vary  in  number  up  to  100.  When  three  to 
six  are  required,  18  to  24  inches  are  considerd  sufficient  length  of  stem; 
twenty-five  to  fifty,  3  to  4  feet,  and  vases  of  one  hundred  will  need  5  feet 
or  more  for  those  occupying  the  center.  In  arranging  vases  of  twenty-five 
or  more  the  aim  is  to  have  each  bloom  show  distinctly  and  the  general 
appearance  as  symmetrical  as  possible. 

When  the  schedule  states  "arranged  for  effect,"  colors  which  harmon- 
ize are  considered  best,  such  as  white  and  pink,  or  yellow,  bronze  and  red. 
Sometimes  a  few  of  the  Anemone  section  may  be  used  to  advantage  in 
such  classes,  giving  diversity  in  form. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


EXHIBITIONS 

The  Management — The  annual  exhibition  requires  mental  and  physi- 
cal as  well  as  financial  support  and  is  generally  more  successful  when  back- 
ed by  a  strong  organization.  Very  few  exhibitions  are  certain  of  being 
successful  year  after  year,  particularly  from  a  financial  standpoint.  Un- 
favorable weather  is  likely  to  impair  the  attendance  and  some  other  local 
attraction  may  divert  the  public. 

Such  organizations  should  appoint  committees  to  handle  certain  parts 
of  the  work,  such  as  arranging  and  mailing  a  schedule,  music,  advertising, 
and  as  the  date  of  the  show  draws  near  supplement  committees  for  decorat- 
ing the  hall,  etc.  The  preliminary,  or,  if  possible,  complete  schedule,  giv- 
ing the  principal  classes,  should  be  mailed  in  January. 

Make  them  definite.  For  example:  Best  twenty-four  blooms  white, 
three  varieties,  stems  not  less  than  36  inches,  shown  in  one  vase.  Best 
twenty-five  plants,  five  varieties,  grown  to  single  stem  and  bloom  in  five- 
inch  pots,  not  exceeding  30  inches  above  pots.  When  so  arranged  the  man- 
ager is  not  hampered  with  questions.  The  exhibitor  knows  just  what  is 
required,  and  the  judge  has  but  one  thing  to  consider, — quality. 

The  larger  the  premium  the  stronger  the  competition.  Big  prizes  and 
honor  of  winning  same  are  incentives  which  are  far-reaching  and  should 
be  duly  considered  for  sake  of  display.  This  course  is  a  greater  necessity 
ir>  localities  remote  from  the  center  of  chrysanthemum  cultivation,  which 
is  probably  between  Cleveland  and  Pittsburg. 

If  a  final  or -complete  premium  list  is  issued  it  should  appear  a  few 
weeks  before  the  date  of  the  show  and  may  be  arranged  to  serve  the  pur- 
pose of  a  program  and  thus  curtail  expense.  The  advertising  is  an  important 
feature  and  the  press  should  be  furnished  with  short  items  of  interest 
to  the  public  that  will  also  refer  directly  to  the  exhibition.  If  possible 
they  should  be  supplied  with  photographs  of  intended  exhibits  and  descrip- 
tion of  same.  A  month  prior  to  the  date  posters  and  other  forms  of  ad- 
vertising will  be  necessary. 

It  is  of  great  importance  to  have  a  competent  secretary,  as  much  de- 
1  ends  upon  accurate  records  of  entries,  premiums,  etc.  W.  N.  Rudd,  Mt. 
Greenwood,  111.,  in  his  able  article,  "The  Management  of  the  Exhibition,^ 
read  before  the  American  Carnation  Society,  suggests  the  following  for 
the  accounting  department :  "The  writer  prefers  the  De  La  Mare  system 
of  exhibition  accounting,  as  being  simple,  speedy  and  accurate.  It  consists: 
of  an  exhibitor's  book,  a  class  book,  a  judge's  book,  entry  cards  and  en- 
velopes for  them,  a  set  of  gummed  labels  of  different  colors,  'first  premium," 
'second  premium,'  etc.,  to  be  attached  to  entry  cards  by  the  judges  as  they 
complete  each  class." 


EXHIBITIONS  65 

The  person  best  suited  to  act  as  superintendent  or  manager  should  be 
selected  and  have  full  charge  of  all  materials  pertaining  to  the  exhibition 
irom  the  first  day  until  the  hall  is  vacated.  From  the  schedule  and  entries 
received  he  will  know  about  how  much  space  will  be  necessary  for  the 
various  classes,  and  if  wise  will  study  the  hall  carefully,  mapping  out 
where  each  class  and  group  shall  be  staged.  It  will  also  be  his  duty,  un- 
less left  to  a  committee,  to  provide  suitable  tables  and  vases  and  other 
requisites  necessary.  The  vases  should  be  of  suitable  size  to  accommo- 
date the  various  classes,  but  should  be  uniform  in  each  specific  class,  so 
one  exhibitor  has  no  advantage  over  another.  These  should  be  filled  and 
if  possible  placed  ready  for  use,  on  or  before  the  opening  day  to  avoid  con- 
fusion and  delay. 

Provide  new  features  each  year,  as  the  public  are  constantly  looking 
for  something  novel. 

Pre-arrangement  is  an  important  factor  to  well  conducted  exhibitions. 
Details  that  can  be  arranged  prior  to  the  opening  will  save  the  manager 
much  anxiety  at  the  last  moment,  and  whatever  facilitates  his  work  will 
assist  the  exhibitor  and  the  task  of  judging  will  be  less  laborious. 

The  Judge — In  selecting  a  judge  it  should  be  a  person  having  suffi- 
cient experience  to  be  fully  competent,  and  whose  honor  and  integrity 
are  above  reproach.  One  to  three  judges  are  the  number  generally  used, 
sometimes  in  large  exhibitions  where  there  are  many  classes  to  consider,  a 
greater  number  are  pressed  into  service  and  divided  into  sets,  each  set 
being  allotted  certain  classes.  When  so  arranged  the  awards  are  made 
with  the  least  possible  delay. 

The  Chrysanthemum  Society  of  America  has  adopted  scales  for  judg- 
ing which  define  the  important  qualifications  to  be  considered  in  the  var- 
ious classes.  They  are  as  follows : 

Scale  of  points  for  bush  plants  and  standards. 

Equality  of  size  and  form  of  plant.  _  40 

Excellence   of   bloom 35 

Foliage    25 


Total    .  _  100 

Scale  of  points  for  plants  grown  to  single  stem  and  one  bloom.  A 
height  of  not  over  three  feet  is  recommended  for  plants  in  this  class,  and 
pots  not  over  six  inches  in  diameter. 

Excellence  of  bloom 40 

Compact,    sturdy   growth 35 

Foliage    . 25 


Total    .  _  100 


66  SMITH'S    CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL 

CUT   BLOOMS 
FOB    COMMERCIAL    PURPOSES. 

Color 20 

Form .__  15 

Fulness    ___              15 

Stem  __ 15 

Foliage  —                                                                          —  15 

Substance 15 

Size  10 

Total    100 

FOR    EXHIBITION     PURPOSES. 

Color 15 

Stem 5 

Foliage 5 

Fullness 15 

Form    ___  15 

Depth  __.  15 

Size 30 

Total    100 

SINGLE    VARIETIES. 

Color 40 

Form    .  20 

Substance    ___  20 

Stem  and  Foliage   _                                                      .__  20 


Total    __ _  _100 

Single  varieties  to  be  divided  in  two  classes — the  large  flowered  and 
the  small  flowered. 

POMPONS. 

Color  _  40 

Form    __ _  —     20 

Stem    and   Foliage,  _  20 

Fullness .. 20 

Total    ___ 100 

There  are  many  qualifications  to  be  considered  and  it  is  not  difficult 
to  determine  which  exhibit  is  most  meritorious.  The  color  should  be  clear 
and  positive,  whatever  it  may  be.  There  is  no  form  which  could  be  con- 
sidered perfect  for  all  the  varying  types.  Each  possess  specimens  which 
are  ideal  as  far  as  their  particular  class  is  concerned.  Blooms  having 
the  greatest  depth  would  have  preference  to  those  that  are  shallow,  not 
only  in  quality  of  form,  but  size.  Size  is  easily  determined  and  can  be 
decided  upon  without  great  effort. 


EXHIBITIONS     •  67 

Fullness  refers  to  the  number  of  petals,  hence  those  showing  a  disc 
or  eye  would  be  considered  deficient  in  this  respect. 

Substance  deals  with  the  texture  of  the  petals  and  those  which  are 
soft  and  flabby  should  be  secondary  to  those  possessing  a  firm  texture. 

The  stems  should  be  straight,  of  good  length  and  stiff  enough  to  prop- 
erly support  the  bloom.  The  foliage  should  be  luxuriant,  of  good  color  and 
well  up  to  the  bloom.  It  is  not  always  necessary  to  use  scales  in  judging, 
as  often  the  contrast  of  competitive  exhibits  are  so  pronounced  that 
awards  can  be  made  with  but  little  consideration.  Where  competition  is 
close  it  is  well  to  keep  the  important  factors  in  mind,  and  if  necessary 
use  them. 

The  Exhibitor — A  practical  exhibitor  knows  the  importance  of  thor- 
oughly understanding  the  rules  and  regulations  as  well  as  the  schedule  of 
the  exhibition  in  which  he  is  to  compete,  and  generally  masters  these 
prior  to  the  date.  In  classes  which  specify  certain  colors  such  as  white, 
pink,  yellow,  etc.,  it  is  advisable  to  select  a  variety  that  is  most  perfect  in 
this  respect,  avoiding  those  that  are  shaded  or  marked  with  other  colors. 
Never  be  confident  of  success  before  your  blooms  are  staged  or  at  least 
until  you  have  seen  those  of  your  competitors. 

Remember  that  judging  to  a  certain  degree  is  based  upon  individual 
preference,  and  judges,  like  others,  do  not  all  see  the  same.  The  decision 
may  be  at  a  variance  with  your  opinion,  but  whether  right  or  wrong, 
do  not  abuse  the  judge,  or  criticise  his  actions  too  severely.  If  you  are 
satisfied  there  is  something  radically  wrong  and  your  exhibit  has  not 
been  given  just  consideration,  enter  a  protest.  This  should  be  made  in 
writing,  setting  forth  the  grounds  of  your  grievance.  Sign  and  hand  to 
the  secretary  to  lay  the  matter  before  the  judge. 

Abide  by  the  rules  and  regulations  and  never  resort  to  trickery  of 
any  kind  to  gain  a  point.  Such  a  course  cannot  succeed  long  at  best, 
and  it  would  be  humiliating  to  have  an  exhibit  disqualified  by  such  a 
procedure. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


CLASSIFICATION 


As  very  few  schedules  include  classes 
for  specific  types,  knowledge  pertaining  to- 
classification  has  not  been  fully  promulgated 
'and  accepted  as  an  important  adjunct  to 
Chrysanthemum  culture.  And  further,  the 
hybridist  has  so  crossed  and  re-crossed  some 
of  the  sections,  that  the  identity  is  often 
rather  obscure. 

Chrysanthemums  possessing  certain  char- 
acteristics of  form  and  petalage  are  grouped; 
into  classes,  according  to  these  peculiarities. 


FIG.    32.     INCURVED 


The  following  are  abridged  descriptions  of  various  types  as  adopted 
by  the  National  Chrysanthemum  Society  of 
England : 

Incurved — The  distinguishing  characteris- 
tics are  the  globular  form  and  regular  out- 
line of  bloom.  They  should  be  as  near  a 
globe  as  possible,  the  florets  broad,  smooth, 
rounded  at  the  tips,  and  regularly  arranged. 
A  hollow  center  or  eye,  or  unevenness  of 
outline  is  a  serious  defect.  See  Fig.  32. 

Japanese — No  definition  can  be  given  to 
include  all  the  remarkable  variations  of 
form  found  in  the  Japanese  chrysanthemums. 
FIG.  33.  JAPANESE.  The  majoritv  of  the  leading  varieties  are 
so  distinctly  marked,  that  nearly  every  one  would  require  a  special  defini- 
tion. Without  regarding  the  colors,  the  form  of  the  florets  and  blooms 
furnish  ample  means  of  identification.  The  florets  are  either  flat,  fluted, 
quilled  or  tubulated,  and  of  varying  length,  from  short,  straight,  spread- 
ing florets,  to  long,  drooping,  twisted,  or  irregularly  incurved  ones.  See 
Fig.  33. 

Japanese  Incurved — No  definition  can  be  given  to  include  all  the  re- 
markable varieties  found  in  this  type.  The  florets  are  either  flat,  fluted, 
quilled  or  tubulated  and  'of  varying  length,  from  short,  straight,  and* 
spreading,  to  long,  drooping,  twisted,  or  irregularly  incurved.  See  Fig.  34. 


CLASSIFICATION 


Hairy — The  chief  peculiarity  consists  of  a  covering  of  short  glandular 
hairs  on  the  reverse  of  the  florets.    This  hair-like  growth  is  shown  to  best 


FIG.    34.     JAPANESE    INCURVED. 


FIG.    35.     HAIRY. 


FIG.    3<j.      REI-LEXED. 


advantage  where  the  florets  are  incurved.     See  Fig.  35. 

Rcflexcd — The  flowers  should  be  perfectly 
circular  in  outline,  without  a  trace  of  thin- 
ness in  the  center,  hemispheroidal  and  with 
broad,  overlapping  florets.  See  Fig.  36. 

Large  Anemones — The  characteristics  are 
large  size,  high,  neatly  formed  centers  and 
regularly  arranged  florets,  one  quilled  and 
forming  the  center  or  disc,  the  other  flat 
and  horizontally  arranged,  forming  the  bor- 
der or  ray.  See  Fig.  37. 

Japanese  Anemones  —  These  are  remark- 
able for  their  large  size  and  fantastic  form. 
The  disc  is  more  or  less  regular  in  outline,, 
while  the  ray  florets  vary  in  length,  breadth 
and  arrangement.  They  may  be  narrow  and  twisted,  broad  and  curled, 
or  droop,  forming  a  fringe  in  some  instances. 

Pompons — Small  blooms,  dwarf  growth  and  small  leaves  distinguish- 
the  true   Pompons.     The   blooms   are   some- 
what flat  or  nearly  globular,  averaging  I1/!' 
inches  in  diameter ;  neat,  compact  with  short, 
flat,  fluted  florets.     See  Fig.  38. 

Pompon  Anemones  —  These,  in  style  of 
growth  and  size,  are  similar  to  the  Pompons. 
They  are  really  small  flowered  Anemones, 
having  a  center  or  disc  of  quilled  and  more 
or  less  regularly  arranged  ray  florets.  See 
Fig.  39. 

Single — These  may  be  any  size  and  form, 
but  should  not  have  more  than  a  double 
row  of  ray  florets  and  arranged  sufficiently 


FIG.   37.      LARGE  ANEMONE. 


70 


SMITH'S    CHRYSANTHEMUM   MANUAL, 


close  together  to  form  a  dense  fringe.  This  section  is  divided  into  two 
classes  known  as  the  large  and  small  flowering.  See  Fig.  40. 

The  National  Chrysanthemum  Society  of  England  in  their  last  official 
catalogue  have  added  the  following  sections : 

Early  Flowering  Varieties — (A)  Large  flowering  Japanese,   (B)   Pom- 
pons. 

Spidery,  Plumed,  Feathery  and  Fantastic. 

Market  and  Decorative  in  three  sections,  viz. :    Early,  midseason  and 
late. 

The  floral  committee  of  the  National  Society  of 
England  have  revised  the  foregoing  classifications,  but 
as  these  have  not  as  yet  been  approved  of,  by  the 
Chrysanthemum  Society  of  America,  those  given 
above  will  meet  the  requirements  of  persons  inter- 
ested in  this  subject. 

Identifying — Each  year  flowers  are  sent  to  experts 
for  identification,  but  very  few  understand  how  diffi- 
cult it  is  to  identify  them  when  received  in  poor 
•condition.  Possibly  the  recipient  has  been  looking  at 
perfect  flowers  and  the  specimens  received  are  en- 
tirely different  as  to  size,  color  and  other  qualifica- 
tions. Foliage  is  often  the  surest  means  of  identifica- 
tion and  in  submitting  samples  do  not  fail  to  send  a 
few  leaves  with  each  specimen.  FIG.  38.  POMPON. 

If  shipped  by  express  see  instructions  for  packing  flowers,  page . 

If  sent  by  mail  wrap  each  bloom  with  tissue  paper  and  line  the  box  with 
wax  paper  to  prevent  evaporation,  and  see  that  the  box  is  of  sufficient 
strength  not  to  be  crushed. 

Each  bloom  should  be  numbered  and  a  record  kept,  so  they  can  be 
reported  upon  in  like  manner. 

The  conditions  under  which  Chrysanthemums  are  grown  are  so  varied 
and  the  blooms  themselves  so  distinct  that  this  task  is  very  difficult  and 
often  fruitless. 

Selection — When  viewing  the  exhibition  table,  notes  are  made  of  the 
best  varieties  to  be  grown  the  following  season.     In  making  these  selec- 
tions it  is  wise  to  consider  which  are  most  suitable  for  the  desired  pur- 
pose.   The  two  chief  classes  are  commercial  and  exhi- 
bition— the  former  should  be  subdivided  as  follows : 
First,  where  the  product  is  packed  and  transported  to 
the  market  and  often  repacked  and  reshipped  before 
they  reach  the  consumer;  second,  those  produced  for 
local  consumption. 

In  the  first  instance  those  possessing  pleasing  colors, 
such  as  white,  pink  and  yellow;  good  substance,  in- 
curved form  and  long,  strong  stems  with  clean  foliage, 
are  the  most  desirable. 

TIG.    39.     POMPON   ANEMONE. 


CLASSIFICATION 


71 


FIG.   40.     SINGLE. 


Those  growing  for  retail  trade  can  include 
many  others  for  sake  of  variety.  Some  of 
the  artistic  formed  sorts,  like  lora,  a  few 
Anemones,  and  Pompons,  will  add  materially 
to  any  form  of  arrangement  from  an 
artistic  point  of  view. 

The  exhibition  varieties  may  also  be  di- 
vided as  follows :  First,  those  for  collec- 
tions which  are  staged  singly,  and  second, 
those  for  vases  of  twelve  or  more  to  be 
staged  collectively. 

Size  is  of  most  importance  for  collections 
and  as  the  stems  usually  do  not  exceed  1G 
inches  in  length,  are  not  so  important  pro- 
vided they  are  strong  enough  to  hold  the 
flowers  in  an  upright  position. 

For  vases,  size  and  colors,  superlative  in 
their    respective    classes    are    the    most    im- 
portant factors.     Strong,  sturdy  stems,  well  clothed  with  foliage  are  most 
effective  and  should  be  taken  into  consideration. 

Many  varieties  suitable  for  the  commercial  grower  are  equally  service- 
able for  exhibition.  Each  grower  must  consider  his  needs.  If  the  demand 
is  for  medium  rather  than  large  blooms,  it  is  best  to  inspect  the  varieties 
grown  on  a  commercial  place,  or  rely  on  the  .judgment  of  those  who  give 
this  matter  their  constant  attention. 

Commercially  the  foreign  varieties  have  met  with  little  favor,  as  will 
be  seen  by  referring  to  any  list  recommended  for  this  purpose. 

They  generally  require  greater  attention  to  produce  marketable  flowers,, 
than  those  of  American  origin.  In  this  country  the  great  demand  has  been 
for  good  commercial  sorts  and  the  hybridizer  has  selected  with  this  in 
view,  while  foreign  seedlings  possessing  superior  exhibition  qualities  are 
most  popular. 

Do  not  discard  those  which  do  well  under  your  method  until  experi- 
ence has  thoroughly  demonstrated  the  merits  of  the  newcomers. 

Novelties  should  be  tested  from  year  to  year,  retaining  those  which 
show  advancement,  bearing  in  mind  the  American  varieties  are  best  for 
commercial  growers  and  the  importations  should  be  carefully  considered 
for  exhibition. 


CONTENTS 

Page 

Chapter     I — History i 

Chapter  II — Stock  Plants   3 

Early  Propagation 3 

Cold  Frames    3 

Field   Grown    3 

Imported  Stock 4 

Novelties  and  Scarce  Sorts 4 

Chapter  III — Propagation 5 

Cutting-  Bench 5 

Selection  of  Cuttings 5 

Making-  Cuttings   5 

Air  and  Temperature 6 

Shading- •. 6 

Watering" , 6 

Saucer  System ' 7 

English  Method    7 

Divisions 7 

Potting- 7 

Chapter  IV — Specimen  Plants 8 

Soil    8 

Re-potting-    8 

Stopping-    9 

Drainage 9 

Final  Potting    9 

Watering    10 

.Staking-    10 

Disbudding- 11 

Feeding- 11 

Chapter  V — Miscellaneous  Plants 14 

.  Standards 14 

Market   Plants 14 

.Sing-le  Stemmed        15 

Miniature    15 

For  Cut  Flowers 15 

Grafting- 16 

In  Open  Border 16 

Hardy  Chrysanthemums 17 

Chapter  VI — Packing-  Plants 18 

For  Express 18 

For  Mail , 19 

For  Export 19 

Chapter  VII — Commercial  Flowers 20 

Soil    21 

Tying 21 

Watering 22 

.  Spraying 23 


Page 

.Airing- 23 

Shading- 23 

Scalding- 23 

Feeding- 23 

Chemical   Fertilizers 24 

Liquid  Manure    25 

•Lime 26 

Iron 26 

Burning   and    Damping 26 

Top-Dressing-     26 

Removing-  Stools    27 

Buds 27 

Early  Varieties 28 

Late   Varieties 29 

Height  of  Plants 29 

When  to  Cut 29 

Chapter  VIII — Exhibition  Blooms.  : 30 

.Bench  System 31 

Soil   .  .  .  .- 31 

Planting-    31 

Firming 31 

Tying « 31 

Buds   and  Disbudding 31 

Taking  the  Buds 33 

Stopping-    35 

Record    of    Operations 35 

.Feeding- 35 

Pot  System 37 

Chapter  IX — Blooms  Grown  Out-of-Doors 38 

Australian-Method 39 

Shelter  or  Snug-  Harbor 41 

Chapter  X — Insects 42 

Aphis 42 

Chrysanthemum  Midge 42 

Red   Spiders 46 

Thrips    46 

Leaf  Tyer 47 

Mealy  Bug    47 

Grasshoppers 48 

Tarnished  Plant  Bug 48 

Corythuca  Gossypi    49 

Grub  Worm 49 

'Cut  Worm 49 

Lady  Bird 49 

Lace-winged  Fly   49 

Chrysanthemum  Fly 50 

Chapter  XI — Diseases 51 

Rust 51 

Leaf  Spot   52 

Mildew  .  . 52 

Chapter  XII — Seedlings  and  Sports 54 

;Seed   Plants    54 

Fertilizing- 55 


Page 

Seedling's 56 

Sports 57 

Chapter  XIII — Preparing-  Exhibits 5S 

Plants 58 

Cut  Flowers    59 

Foreign  Shipments   61 

Dressing'  Flowers    61 

Chapter  XIV — Staging- 62 

Staging-  Plants 62 

Stag'ing-  Blooms    62 

Boards 62 

Vases    63 

Chapter  XV — Exhibitions 64 

The  Management 64 

The  Judge 65 

The  Exhibitor 67 

Chapter  XVI — Classification 68 

Incurved    68 

Japanese 68. 

Japanese  Incurved 68 

Hairy   69 

Reflexed 69 

Larg-e  Anemones    69* 

Japanese  Anemones    69 

Pompons    69 

Pompon  Anemones    69 

Sing-le 69 

Identifying- 70 

Selection   .  70 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

Pa^<- 

Frontispiece 

Fig-.     1 — Cutting-  Bench  Tamp 5 

Fig.      2 — Cutting's    6 

Fig-.     3 — Stock  Grown  by  Flat  System g 

Fig'.      4 — Specimen  Plant 12 

Fig-.     5— Market  Plants l-i 

Fig".      6 — Box  of  Plants  Properly  Packed 18 

Fig".      7 — Bench  of  Ivory  Tied  to  Wires 21 

Fi,?.      8 — Bench  Showing-  Plants  Tied  to  Twine 22 

Fig.     9 — Appearance  of  Foliag-e  When  Overfed 24 

Fig-.   10 — Blind  Growth  from  Excessive  Nutriment 25- 

Fig".   11 — Crowns  as  They  Appear  on  the  Plant 32 

Fig".   12 — Crown  When   Reserved 32 

Fig'.   13 — Lateral  Retained  for  Later  Bud 33 

Fig-.  14 — Terminals  as  They  Appear 34 

Fig-.   15 — Terminals  After  Being-  Disbudded 34 

Fig'.   16 — Showing-  the  Effect  of  Early  and  Late  Buds  Upon  the  Form  and 

Color 35 

Fig'.    17 — Bud   Properly  Expanding- 36 


Page 

Fig1.  18 — Buds  Distorted  from  Excessive  Pood 36 

Fig1.  19 — Buds  Blasted  by  the  Use  of  Too  Strong-  Fertilizers 37 

Fig.  20 — Shelter  or  Snug-  Harbor 40 

Fig".  21 — Chrysanthemums  Showing  Galls 42 

Fig.  22— Adult  Gall  Fly 43 

Fig.   23 — Leaf  Tyer,  Showing-  the  Larvae,  Chrysalis  and  Moth  Stages...  47 

Fie-.   24— Tarnished  Plant  Bug 48 

Fig'.  25 — Depredations    of   the    Tarnished    Plant    Bug;    Branch    Showing 

Mass  of  Blind  Growth '. 48 

Fig.  26 — Lace-winged  Fly,  Showing  Larvse  and  Mature  Stages 50 

Fig.   27 — Flower  Trimmed  Ready  for  Fertilization 55 

Fig.   28 — I.  Pistillate  Floret.     II.  Staminate  Floret 56 

Fig.  29 — Wrapping  a  B16om 58 

Fig.   30 — Bloom  Wrapped   59 

Fig.  31 — Blooms   Properly  Packed 60 

Fig.   32 — Incurved    68 

Fig.   33 — Japanese   68 

Fig.  34 — Japanese  Incurved 69 

Fig.  35 — Hairy    69 

Fig.   36 — Reflexed 69 

Fig.   37 — Large  Anemone 69 

Fig. '  38 — Pompon   70 

Fig.   39 — Pompon  Anemone    70 

Fig.  40 — Single 71 


Chrysanthemums 
For  Everyone 

Since  1907  we  have  devoted  our  entire  time 
and  energy  to  the  development  of  all  types  of 
Chrysanthemums  and  especially  those  best  adapt- 
ed to  commercial  and  exhibition  use. 

Our  collection  of  standard  varieties  is  unsur- 
passed in  America.  As  soon  as  the  merits  of  the 
new  sorts  are  established  we  discard  the  weakest 
of  the  old  kinds  and  thus  keep  our  offerings  strict- 
ly up-to-date. 

Elmer  D.  Smith  &  Co. 

Adrian,  Mich. 

Catalogue  on  application. 


».Ub.  Gen.Lib. 

7  DAY  USE         A9*R'' 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 


.c. 


This  publication  is  due  on  the  LAST  DATE 
stamped  below. 


-MAY  3  lifts*  —  — 

JMH  V  "T5CP 

WRIT  Rn«,  Q  'RC\                               General  Library 
?B339^1?)1i88                         Univer^^&lifornl. 

Syracuse    N    y. 
PAT.  JAM.  2 1,1 908 


415315 


.YC  6348 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


